You must pass through fire to enter — the tribal hidden gem of Taitung, “Rulakes”

▲ A vivid mural depicting various aspects of tribal life.

Reported and photographed by Peng Huaiyu, reporter in Taitung

“The city is a bit shorter than Taipei, but the sky here is much higher,” wrote Yu Guangzhong describing Taitung. How long has it been since you wandered through endless rice fields and breathed in the fresh air? More importantly,

when visiting Taitung — a melting pot of indigenous cultures — don’t miss the tribal tour to deeply appreciate the beauty of this land from a cultural perspective.

▲ Enjoy the mountain village scenery of the Rulakes Tribe.Located in Jinfeng Township, Taitung County, the area historically serves as the stronghold of the Paiwan and Rukai tribes. In the indigenous language, it’s called Rulakes (rulakes), which originally meant “a place full of camphor trees.” Upon arriving at Rulakes, you might want to try saying “Nasalu~”, which is a Paiwan phrase meaning “welcome” or “thank you.”

Nestled between the upper and middle reaches of the Jinxi Creek, bordering the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Southern Dawu Mountain to the west, the mountainous terrain creates an isolated little mountain village.

▲ Before entering the Rulakes Tribe, there is a fire-crossing ceremony.Want to visit Rulakes? It’s not as simple as just walking in.According to tradition, visitors must first go through a fire-crossing ritual. Du Peiyu, the community director, holds a bundle of seven-mile fragrance leaves. Each visitor picks a piece of camphor wood and throws it into the fire. Then, Du gently brushes the visitor with the leaves. This act serves a dual purpose: to cleanse away impurities and purify the body, and to inform the ancestral spirits that visitors have arrived and to ask for their care. At the end of the ceremony, the seven-mile fragrance leaves are thrown into the fire to symbolically leave any negativity at the entrance.

In addition to the fire ceremony, there is also a traditional water-rinsing ritual to cleanse the mouth and nose, symbolizing purification of body and mind. Visiting this tranquil little tribe, Rulakes, allows you to experience these fascinating water and fire entry rituals.The people of Rulakes mainly engage in farming. The community is small, with a population of less than 400, yet it is self-sufficient and built on mutual cooperation. Crops such as millet, roselle, ginger, taro, coffee, and peanuts are staples for the villagers’ livelihoods. Community director Du Peiyu mentioned that

every November is roselle season, and the following August is the millet harvest festival — the two biggest events of the year in Rulakes, bringing an unusual liveliness to the entire community.

▲ Aside from selling coffee, “Du’s Coffee” also offers colorful “millet cookie handmade biscuits.”

Strolling through the peaceful village, you can visit various shops. Coffee lovers should check out “Du’s Coffee,” famous for its millet cookies. These vibrant cookies contain no artificial coloring — they are handmade using ingredients like coffee, red beans, red quinoa, purple yam, and green tea. The richly flavored cookies paired with millet add texture and depth, and when enjoyed with a cup of aromatic coffee, they create a serene and relaxing tribal vibe.
Rulakes Tribe (Jinfu Community)

Location: No. 1, Lane 38, Linyu Village, Jinfeng Township, Taitung County