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In 1921, the first British mountaineering team, led by Lieutenant Colonel Charles Howard-Bury, began climbing Mount Everest and reachedan altitude of 7,000 meters. In 1922, the second British mountaineering team used oxygen equipment to reach an altitude of 8,320 meters. The origins of mountaineeringThe Alps, spanning France, Italy, Switzerland, and Austria, is the birthplace of modern mountaineering.
Its main peak — Mont Blanc (located in France) — stands at 4,810 meters, making it the highest peak in Western Europe. Historical records indicate that a renowned French scientist named de Saussure, eager to explore alpine plant resources, wished for someone to help him overcome what was then considered an insurmountable obstacle — reaching the summit of the Alps. In May 1760, he posteda notice in the village of Chamonix at the foot of the Alps stating, “Anyone who can reach or provide a route to the summit of Mont Blanc will be handsomely rewarded.” However, the notice received no response for a long time. He reposted it every year. Until 26 years later, in June 1786, a village doctor named Balmattook down the notice. After over two months of preparation and teaming up with local mountain crystal miner Paccard, on August 6, they became the first to summit Mont Blanc.On August 3, 1787, a mountaineering team of over 20 people, led by de Saussure himself and guided by Paccard,summited the peak again, marking the beginning of modern mountaineering. Throughout the climb, they conducted various studies related to human physiology, the natural environment, and more, gathering valuable scientific data on high-altitude environments.
Later, people referred to mountaineering as the “Alpine Movement,” and 1786 as the birth year of mountaineering. De Saussure, Paccard, and others were recognized as the founders of world mountaineering, a view endorsed by the international mountaineering community.The Development of Mountaineering
After the birth of mountaineering in 1786, especially during the 15-year period from 1850 to 1865, the sport developed rapidly in the Alps.The world’s first national mountaineering organization — the Alpine Club of the UK — was established in 1857. During this period, over 20 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps were conquered, including the Western Alps’ second-highest peak, the Dufourspitze (4,638 meters), the Écrins Peak (4,103 meters), and the Finsteraarhorn (4,275 meters).In July 1865, British mountaineer Whymper and his team
also summited the previously deemed unclimbable Matterhorn (4,505 meters, with steep rock faces and average slopes of 65 degrees, some reaching 90 degrees). This marked the peak of mountaineering centered around the Alps, ushering in the so-called “Golden Age of the Alps.”From 1950 to 1964, a 14-year period marked a significant phase in the development of high-altitude mountaineering. In June 1950,
The Development of Mountaineering
After the birth of mountaineering in 1786, especially during the 15 years from 1850 to 1865, the sport developed extremely rapidly in the Alps.The world’s first national mountaineering organization—the Alpine Club of the UK—was established in 1857.During this period, more than 20 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps were conquered, including the Dom (4,638 m), the second highest peak in Western Europe, as well as the Écrins' Barre des Écrins (4,103 m) and the Finsteraarhorn (4,275 m).Over 20 peaks, including the Larsehorne Peak (4,275 meters), all above an altitude of 4,000 meters, were conquered one after another.
In July 1865, British mountaineer Edward Whymper and his teamsuccessfully climbed the Matterhorn (4,505 m), which was then considered unclimbable due to its steep rock faces with an average gradient of 65 degrees and some sections reaching 90 degrees.This marked the pinnacle of alpine-centered mountaineering, ushering in the so-called “Golden Age of Alpinism.”The so-called "Golden Age of Alpinism" dawned on the peaks.
From 1950 to 1964, a 14-year period that marked a significant phase in the development of high-altitude mountaineering. In June 1950,On March 3, French mountaineers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal paid a bloody price (one lost both feet to frostbite, the other lost a hand) as they became the first in human mountaineering history to successfully summit Annapurna I, standing at 8,091 meters.On May 9, 1953, members of the British mountaineering team—Edmund Hillary (from New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (of Nepali origin, later an Indian citizen)—reached the summit of Mount Everest from the southern slope.This marked the first successful ascent of the world’s highest peak in the history of human mountaineering.Over the following 14 years, 13 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters were conquered one after another by athletes from various countries.Meanwhile, China’s new generation of mountaineers also stepped vigorously onto the global alpine climbing stage with a fresh and dynamic presence.On May 2, 1964, the Chinese Mountaineering Team, led by captain Xu Jing and including Wang Fuzhou and nine other athletes, successfully summited the world’s 14th highest peak—Shishapangma—at 8,012 meters.They set a world record by having all 10 team members reach an 8,000-meter-plus peak collectively.
The period from 1950 to 1964 in world mountaineering history is referred to as the “Golden Age of the Himalayas.”
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