Pitons are commonly used protection equipment, applicable in both mountaineering and rock climbing. However, the two types of pitons serve different purposes and have different requirements. The pitons used for mountaineering or aid climbing only need to withstand a certain amount of pulling force (several hundred kgf), whereas those used for rock climbing must be able to endure the impact from a lead fall. In addition to requiring high material strength, their use is also greatly related to technique. In principle, the impact force that a piton protection point can withstand should not be less than the minimum requirement of the rope system, which is 20 kN.

       Using a piton may seem simple—just hammer it in—but in reality, a safe piton protection point demands very high standards. In China, there have been cases where climbers using pitons fell and the protection failed, due to issues with the rope, the piton, or other factors. The injured climber had to rest for several months.

       Pitons designed specifically for mountaineering usually come with labels prohibiting their use for rock climbing.

       The general price of pitons in China is around several dozen yuan. Knifeblades are relatively cheaper, while angles, lost arrows, and universals are slightly more expensive.

       One more suggestion about pitons: if placed well, they can make good protection points, but often mean they can never be removed. Pitons can also cause permanent damage to the rock. If you aim to develop crack climbing skills, it’s better to use cams for protection. In fact, using pitons is often more expensive than using cams, and you also have to carry a heavy hammer during climbs.