Bouldering has been introduced relatively late in China, and many believe it to be relatively safe. However, it actually sees the highest number of accidents. The reasons for this are as follows:
1. Misconceptions. Since bouldering routes are generally low to the ground, many assume there’s little to no danger. In reality, due to the often exaggerated movements and unpredictable, hard-to-control falling postures, combined with the fact that climbers’ attention is usually still focused on the previous move before a fall, landings are often unconscious—making injuries more likely.
2. Poor self-protection ability. Self-protection is extremely important in bouldering. Good self-protection includes:
Ⅰ. Immediately focusing your attention on how to land after a fall;
Ⅱ. Adopting the correct landing posture;
Ⅲ. Using your body’s own features to create the best possible cushioning actively;
Ⅳ. The ideal landing posture and cushioning process is to first land on the feet, then allow the knees, waist, and back to bend naturally, transferring the weight to the hips, back, and shoulders.
★ Special reminder: Never try to support your full body weight with your hands directly.
★ Special advice: Practice specific, targeted falling drills. These exercises can greatly reduce the risk of injury in bouldering.
3. Uncertainty and unreasonableness of venue conditions. Bouldering venues vary in terms of their setups and crash pad arrangements. Risks from the venue include:
Ⅰ. Issues with crash pad setup. The placement, size, thickness, and firmness of pads all require careful consideration. If pads consist of multiple pieces, the gaps between them are very dangerous and must be integrated into a unified surface.
Ⅱ. Height-related risks. The higher the route, the greater the danger;
Ⅲ. Hold-related risks. Both artificial and natural holds can come loose, and such incidents are more likely to cause harm to the climber.
(2) About Lead Climbing
Lead climbing often involves falls, which place higher demands on the performance of gear, the use of equipment, and protection techniques. In traditional climbing, understanding the route, planning the climb, and the overall capability of the lead climber become even more crucial. Based on the cases listed above, the causes of such accidents include:
1. Insufficient understanding of the characteristics of the climbing route, such as its line and direction, falling rocks, or obstacles beneath the route;
2. Inadequate protection technique, such as poor buffering skills;
3. Substandard equipment quality, such as using homemade cams or uncertified climbing ropes;
4. Incorrect use of gear, such as not fastening the harness properly or using unfamiliar protection devices;
5. Violations of safety rules, such as climbing under the influence of alcohol or climbing at night.
(3) About Top-Rope Climbing
Top-rope climbing is relatively very safe. However, serious accidents can still happen due to severely incorrect protection methods;
1. Using expired equipment;
2. Choosing inappropriate equipment with insufficiently safe backup methods. We engage in climbing because we find joy in it—even if that joy comes from failure or pain—but accidents are something no one ever wants to encounter. Recording these sobering stories is meant to offer all climbers profound lessons. My lesson is yours, and yours is mine too.