2. When carrying a spare tube, roll the valve inside. This prevents it from poking through your jersey pocket.
3. When installing a new tire, align the brand label with the valve of the inner tube. This makes it easier to locate the puncture on the outer tire.
4. After a flat, flip the outer tire inside out and carefully check for small thorns or debris. Use your fingernail to remove any embedded particles from the tread.
5. Don’t use the sandpaper or metal scraper that comes with patch kits. A damp cloth is enough to clean the inner tube.
6. Inflate the new inner tube slightly until it holds its shape. Insert it into the tire, position the valve, then tuck one side of the tire bead into the rim before doing the other side.
7. When fitting the last stubborn section of the tire bead, pull out a bit of the already-seated portion first, then push the rest in.
8. The final part of the tire goes on where the tire and rim are closest together — even if you use tire levers, you won't risk pinching the tube here.
9. Whether on the road or at home, always follow the same steps to fix a tire. The more practiced you are, the faster you’ll be during a race.
10. If you use lightweight tubes, avoid thin rim tape. Use 22mm Velox or OE full-width plastic strips instead.
11. Maintain your rim tape. Check it every time you remove the tire. Replace it if the tape is peeling up or has shifted inward.
12. When switching to tubeless tires, practice inflating without sealant at first. Once you're comfortable, do one practice session with sealant.
13. Trust the directional arrows on your tires. Installing them backward won’t improve climbing or braking performance.
14. Want better shock absorption? Choose high-volume 2.0 or 2.1-inch tires. Wider tires use less air and offer a smoother ride.
15. For even more comfort, go tubeless with 2.0 or 2.1-inch tires. Even at the same pressure, tubeless setups feel softer.
16. On loose or hard-packed dirt with soft cover, avoid using 1.9-inch or narrower front tires. Small rocks can sink into the surface, causing loss of traction or crashes.
17. Fill a clean spray bottle with rubbing alcohol. Use it to freshen up your helmet, shoes, and insoles.
18. After riding, remove your insoles and clean them. If you wear SIDI shoes, check that the sole and buckle screws are tight.
19. Put some talcum powder in your shoes to keep them smelling fresh and make them easier to put on.
20. Don’t rely solely on the alignment marks on clipless pedals. Compare left and right pedals to ensure consistency. If you have multiple pairs, compare across brands too.
21. Before washing your cycling jersey, cover the Velcro areas to prevent them from sticking to other clothes or lint.
22. Simple Green (an American cleaner, see image) is a fabric-safe bleach alternative and a great bike cleaner. Dilute it with water at a 1:1 ratio for general cleaning.
23. Got muddy, wet shoes? Rinse them off and leave them on an electric heating mat overnight — they’ll be dry by morning.
24. Hate how your hardtail saddle feels? Wear two pairs of Lycra shorts, or add padded liner shorts under regular ones.
25. Stand against a wall in your cycling shoes. Place a book between your legs and mark the height on the wall — that’s your saddle height.
26. Multiply that height by 0.883 to get the correct distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle.
27. This is your starting saddle height. If you tend to slide forward, lower the saddle by 1/8 inch. If you slide back, raise it by 1/8 inch.
28. When riding no-hands, your saddle angle should hold you in place. If you’re sliding forward, raise the nose of the saddle slightly.
29. Whiteboard markers are an inexpensive, convenient, and widely available item. They can be used to mark your standard seatpost height, making it easy to readjust after loosening the quick-release to return it to its original position.
30. Whiteboard markers can also be used to mark the position of shift and brake cables before adjusting the clamp. This makes it easier to measure how much the cable has moved.
31. Mark the center position of the suspension damper adjustment knob. Align this mark with another mark on the suspension—either on the fork leg or the fork crown.
32. After drinking all the water from your hydration bladder, blow air through the hose to expand the bladder. You’ll get a bit of extra water this way.
33. If your hydration bladder contains sports drink, clean it immediately after your ride. Remove the mouthpiece and let it dry completely.
34. Twist a wire hanger into a thin strip, insert it into the hydration bladder, and hang it up to dry.
35. Carry at least one extra cleat screw in your tool kit. A small bundle of wire and zip ties (see image) can help get you home after the worst mechanical issues.
36. Never go for a bike ride without super glue. Besides serving as a last-resort repair tool, it can also be used to seal small wounds.
37. Electrical tape is also a great tool for hydration bladders. A single roll goes a long way and can help with bike repairs.
38. If you have to keep riding after a flat tire, wrap the electrical tape several times around the tire and rim. This will hold the tire in place and reduce rim damage.
39. When cycling out, it’s best to carry a foldable multi-tool that includes a chain tool. Bringing extra links lets you avoid shortening the chain and sacrificing gears.
40. Make sure you can identify which pins are damaged after repairs. Have your local bike shop press them back in properly when you return.
41. We’ve successfully pushed out and reinserted pins on Shimano’s center-punch-riveted chains. You can fix the pin later using Rohloff’s tool at home.
42. Carry an SRAM link (see image) in your bag. When your chain breaks, push out the damaged link and use this one to reconnect it.
43. You can only reuse the pin if you haven’t pushed it all the way out the back of the chain. Stop pushing once the pin is 5/32T long out the back…
44. At this point, 1/32T of the pin remains inside the chain. Spread the chain apart, and when you reconnect it, the pin will automatically lock into place.
45. Do you often ride on muddy trails? Use a 12-34 gear ratio. The 12T is less prone to clogging with mud, and you won’t experience false shifts like you would on a 11T gear.
46. If the sun is so strong it could fry your feet, remember to remove electronic devices from your handlebars when mounting your bike on the roof. The sun can damage screens.
47. Apply lubricant every time you unscrew a bolt. This ensures accurate re-tightening and prevents loosening.
48. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the seatpost before inserting it into the frame. This prevents rusting and keeps the seatpost from getting stuck to the frame.
49. But some seatposts may still slip—whether dry or lubed. Clean the seatpost well and apply chalk to the part that goes into the frame. That will prevent slipping. If this happens while riding, use dirt instead.
50. To check whether bolts that are 6mm or smaller are tightened, loosen them first and then tighten them to the proper torque. Also, remove the SPD pedal axle, coat the recess with lubricant, and reassemble it. Tightening the axle will squeeze out the lubricant and pressurize the bearings.