It's actually quite easy to find a wealth of outdoor knowledge online, but the tips here are more personal experiences. Originally intended for outdoor activities, they can also be useful references for passionate outdoor enthusiasts.
1. (Highly recommended!) Another use for towels. The most common type—thick, pure cotton towels. Place one tightly against your back before intense exercise to absorb sweat. Take it off immediately after finishing, and you’ll feel much more comfortable, plus your inner clothing will dry much faster. It works even better when paired with moisture-wicking undergarments. Bring several so you can change them often.
2. Cheap synthetic fiber underwear. I’ve seen people climb mountains wearing regular thermal underwear—terrifying. Moisture-wicking underwear is best, but if you don’t have any, avoid cotton. Instead, look for synthetic fiber (usually acrylic) underwear at street markets or supermarkets. Though not as good as moisture-wicking wear, it’s far superior to cotton.
3. (Highly recommended!) Say no to jeans. This really doesn’t need much explanation, yet I still see many beginners wearing jeans for outdoor activities. Some people apparently still believe jeans are durable and tough. In reality, cotton is neither strong nor abrasion-resistant, and its physical properties are unsuitable for outdoor sports. Once it rains, you wade through water, or sweat heavily, you’ll understand the downside of jeans. Ditch them—wearing a 20-yuan synthetic suit is better than jeans.
4. Choosing shoe size. Almost all guides say hiking boots should be 1 to 1.5 sizes larger. My experience differs—I’ve always found that shoes loosen up the more you wear them. New shoes are tight, old ones are loose; morning is tight, evening is loose; longer treks make them looser. So don’t buy shoes too big. Oversized shoes are both uncomfortable and prone to blisters. The best fit is snug, provided you try them on with thick socks.
5. Shoelaces coming undone. This annoying issue can easily be solved with a rubber band. Or use the tiny cable ties that come with appliance cords—they’re even more secure.
6. Shoe insoles getting wrinkled. Many people face the problem of insoles bunching up inside shoes. Here’s my solution: cut a thin, semi-transparent nylon cutting board (the foldable kind—the key is the material, something similar will do) into the shape of the insole, then simply sew it onto the insole. Problem solved. Also, I recommend the so-called “health insoles” sold in supermarkets—those with bumpy surfaces. Forgot the brand, but they only cost a few yuan and are sturdier than the expensive ones from outdoor shops. Some may doubt the bumps, but don’t worry—they’re what make it comfortable.
7. The weak spot of windbreakers. As long as the quality is fine, windbreakers are strictly waterproof in structure. But they have one vulnerable spot: the sleeve cuff. On every windbreaker I’ve seen, there's no glued seal where the cuff meets the sleeve. After prolonged rain, water will inevitably seep in here. Arc’teryx does this part well, but they’re too expensive. So for now, I haven’t found a great solution. Since your forearms don’t sweat much, just cover it with a plastic bag for now.
8. (Highly recommended!) Liberation Shoes. These are an incredibly cost-effective item. Cheap, decent grip, and compact. No matter how good your hiking shoes are, you’ll want to switch to something else for resting at camp at night, right? Hiking shoes worth hundreds of yuan have an unavoidable flaw in streams: their mesh uppers let sand in constantly, but Liberation Shoes handle it well. (Though they offer poor protection, and long-term wear can hurt your feet.)
9. (Highly recommended!) Finding the path. Unless you’re planning to cross an uninhabited area and are fully prepared to blaze your own trail mentally and logistically, don’t force your way through areas with no clear path—whether you’re temporarily lost or trying to take a shortcut. Doing so could get you injured and won’t save time or energy. It’s smarter to turn back and keep looking for the existing path. Try it a few times if you don’t believe me.
10. (For reference) Pace rhythm. A common suggestion is to walk 30 minutes and rest 5 minutes, or hike one hour and rest 10 minutes. I think this is just a guideline. Everyone’s stamina and habits differ, so optimal pacing varies. For a faster pace, a good rhythm is to hike continuously for about 3 hours and then rest 20 minutes (on flat ground). Also, for multi-day trips, it’s best to go slow on the first day, then resume normal pace the next. Let your body adjust; otherwise, you’ll suffer.
11. (For reference) Stride length. Most guides advise taking smaller steps. My experience is different—I’ve grown used to longer strides (slightly longer than usual walking steps) over long hikes, which feel more comfortable. (Perhaps because it reduces total step count and helps minimize sole wear?)
12. Don’t take off your shoes during breaks. Long hikes will cause your feet to swell. Taking off your shoes makes it painful to put them back on.
13. Backpack waterproofing. Hiking packs have some inherent water resistance, and rain covers are essential. But if you’re caught in continuous rain for three to four hours, you’ll realize a rain cover isn’t foolproof. Dry bags are good but limited in capacity. I recommend wrapping clothes and sleeping bags in large plastic bags (like appliance packaging). This is even more important for stream trekking.
14. (Highly recommended) How to pack a sleeping bag. Most people like using compression sacks for sleeping bags—wrong. That method is outdated. Your sleeping bag goes at the bottom anyway, so skip extra packaging. Just stuff it directly into your backpack, then pile other items on top and press down hard. This maximizes space usage, makes the packed bag firm, and gives it a full shape.
15. GPS and compass. This topic is somewhat redundant since it’s been widely discussed. GPS is great and professional, but it has too many limitations: high power consumption, susceptibility to weather and terrain, and slow response. Many also carry military compasses, popular models being the Type 62 or 65. I recommend orienteering compasses (not professional-grade, the type with an acrylic base roughly the size of a phone screen). Military compasses aren’t suitable for outdoor use—they’re bulky and heavy, and features like inclinometers, odometers, speed dials, precise orientation, and distance measurement aren’t very useful. Orienteering compasses are lightweight, simple, and practical. Quality ones for 20–30 yuan are perfectly adequate.
16. Trail-blazing knife. A machete may look impressive, but it’s useless against the flexible thorns and weeds on mountain paths. It’s great for chopping wood, but I believe you shouldn’t touch anything that isn’t an annual herbaceous plant. I use a Swedish ASE knife—long, thin, light, sharp, and excellent for trail clearing.
17. Water bag nozzle. The drinking tube nozzle of a Platypus water bag is exposed, gets dirty easily, and may leak water onto your back when you shoulder the pack. The nozzle can be detached—you can easily make a cover using a plastic film box for film rolls. I recommend Fuji’s white translucent ones for visibility.
18. Water bottle. To show off and prove you’re an outdoor enthusiast, LAKEN or SIGG bottles are a must. For practicality, military canteens are best. Great value, extremely sturdy. LAKEN and SIGG are slightly lighter, but they dent easily, the caps strip, and do you really need to store water for a week before drinking? Of course, drink bottles work just fine too.
19. Small stainless steel cup. Sold in supermarkets, a 7 cm diameter one is ideal, cheap, and indestructible. Use this at camp, and a straw-equipped water bag while hiking—a perfect combo. Hang a small piece from your backpack when not in use, and it’s convenient for scooping stream water to drink.
20. Sunglasses. Usually unnecessary. A hat with a brim is enough—in the mountains, there’s not much glare. Snow sunglasses are essential in icy areas, but you might also need snow goggles, and they must be anti-fog. In low temperatures, non-anti-fog goggles are practically useless.
21. DIY crampons. Also known as four-tooth crampons, cheap and simple, just a few dozen yuan. DIY enthusiasts can make their own. Though called crampons, few actually use 4-tooth ones on snowy mountains. But on regular mountain paths with slippery conditions, this simple tool can be crucial. I think trekking poles are optional, but these are a must.
22. Light box fabric. Ground tarps are mainly used in winter to prevent tents from freezing to the ground in ice and snow. I recommend getting some advertisement light box fabric from a sign shop. It comes in various colors, is cheap and durable, though a bit heavier.
23. Disposable tablecloths. The thin plastic type used in low-end restaurants. Sold in supermarkets, cheap, light, and multi-purpose.
24. Zippo lighter. Many think Zippos are outdoorsy, but they’re terrible in the wild—far worse than disposable lighters. Leave it at home and use disposables instead. And bring several, stashed in different spots.
25. Map protection. First, make a copy (color print is best), and use it for marking routes. Then buy transparent, non-patterned glass film from a decoration shop—or transfer film (which is basically glass film) from a signage shop. Flatten the original map and stick the film on. This makes the original map both waterproof and durable.
26. Work gloves. Nowadays, in labor supply stores, there’s a type of coated glove. The glove itself is made of cotton thread, but the palm and fingertips are covered with a thick, soft layer of rubber (the rubber is usually yellow, though some are white). These gloves are roughly made, but they offer better slip-resistance and puncture protection than any other work gloves, and they’re also quite comfortable to wear.
27. Milk candy and chocolate. These two items are notably effective for quickly replenishing energy. If you ever feel physically drained due to excessive exertion or insufficient supplies during your trip, eating a few pieces will show effects in about ten minutes. Of course, you can eat them even if you don’t feel low on energy. Nowadays, supermarkets carry a dairy product called “dry milk tablets,” which are tablet-shaped and quite good too. Many pharmacies also sell oral glucose powder — adding some of this to your water bottle is another good option. Of course, there are now specialized energy foods like energy bars, though I haven’t tried them myself, so I can’t say how well they work.
28. Drinking water. Books always say not to wait until you’re thirsty to drink water. No matter how you drink it, the human body’s required water intake is fixed — drinking when you’re not thirsty might lead to waste.
29. Don’t pack too much food. In truth, you probably won’t finish it all. How much of it actually goes into your stomach and does you any good? We’re engaging in outdoor activities, not organizing a dinner party or survival training. Where exactly are we going that’s a true no-man’s land? You’ll only eat part of what you bring, and the rest you’ll either give to local farmers or offer up to the local earth god along the way. Remember: don’t treat your backpack like a “supermarket.”
30. How many clothes to wear when sleeping. The old advice I used to hear was that wearing more clothes to bed actually makes you colder, and that wearing fewer makes for a warmer sleep. Later, I found out this is completely wrong. Wearing more definitely keeps you warmer. If your sleeping bag’s temperature rating isn’t high enough, it’s best to sleep in a wool sweater and fleece. Of course, wearing too much might make the sleeping bag too tight and uncomfortable.
31. Trimming nails. This mainly applies to women. During tougher outdoor activities, don’t keep long nails. They get in the way of work, trap dirt easily, and are prone to injury.
32. Preventing and treating blisters on the feet. It goes without saying that your shoes should fit properly. If you feel discomfort on the soles of your feet during a hike — a burning sensation in certain spots — that’s usually a sign a blister is forming. Don’t take chances; quickly apply a sufficiently thick layer of gauze adhesive tape around the painful area to redistribute the pressure on the sole. If a blister has already formed, it’s necessary to puncture it to drain the fluid (the old method is to thread a horsehair through the blister), but under no circumstances should you cut off the skin over the blister — otherwise, you’ll be in agony walking the next day.
33. Potassium permanganate. This stuff is multi-purpose. Aside from disinfection, it also serves as an emetic. If you accidentally ingest something toxic, dissolve a bit in water and drink it — vomiting will follow immediately. Moreover, few people know it’s also a highly effective topical snakebite remedy, capable of quickly neutralizing snake venom (effective against both neurotoxic and hemotoxic venoms). If bitten by a snake, immediately immobilize the limb, remove any broken fangs, and use a small knife to enlarge the wound slightly (don’t go too deep!), then fill the wound with a small amount of potassium permanganate powder before proceeding with other first aid measures.