The waterproof performance of waterproof jackets weakens after washing, and the sun protection of low-quality sun-protective clothing is not as good as that of pure cotton long sleeves.
"Backpackers," "couch surfers," "reliving youth on the road," "a trip decided on a whim"... More and more white-collar workers and office employees are getting into outdoor sports, which has made functional outdoor clothing a highlight in the apparel market. These functional outdoor garments, ranging from as low as two or three hundred yuan to as high as twenty or thirty thousand yuan, some tout extraordinary waterproof capabilities, others focus on sun and wind protection. Because they come with "functions," they are usually essential gear for outdoor enthusiasts. However, these pieces of equipment are not as formidable as they appear.
Waterproof jackets become less water-resistant the more you wash them
Recently, the Shanghai Consumer Council released the "2014 Waterproof Jacket Comparative Test Report." The test found that nearly all samples experienced varying degrees of decline in waterproof performance after washing, yet none of the manufacturers provided clear washing label instructions regarding this.
Among the 40 samples tested for waterproofing, with prices ranging from 499 yuan to 3,698 yuan, after 10 washes, 16 samples exhibited good or fair resistance to wetting, 14 showed poor or very poor resistance, and 10 had no water resistance at all. Samples with water resistance accounted for 40% of the total. Mainstream outdoor brands on the market such as Columbia, Toread, and Nike all saw varying degrees of decline in waterproof functionality after 5–10 washes.
A representative from the consumer council explained that currently, the waterproof performance of most waterproof jackets on the market comes from coatings on the fabric surface. As the number of washes increases, these coatings may gradually peel off or degrade, affecting their waterproof capabilities. Companies should provide prompts or explanations on product labels to protect consumers' right to know and choose.
Reporters visited local outdoor clothing stores in Guangzhou and found that while the waterproof jackets sold in these shops indicated "wash separately," "do not iron," and "do not use fabric softener," none clearly stated how washing might reduce waterproof performance. Sales staff also did not inform reporters that washing waterproof jackets could weaken their water resistance. The same situation was found in stores of outdoor brands like Life is Good, Nike, and Adidas.
Sun-protective clothing isn’t all that miraculous
Not only do outdoor waterproof jackets lose functionality after washing, but other functional clothing, such as sun-protective wear, is also not as magical. This summer, the market is flooded with lightweight, transparent garments resembling raincoats—dubbed "sun-protective clothing"—which are becoming essential items for many women going out. Prices range widely, from 50 yuan at street stalls to 400–500 yuan in specialty shops. Industry insiders say when buying sun-protective clothing, check for UPF value labels or third-party inspection reports, and ensure the UPF is >40, with UVA transmittance <5% as the standard.If you can’t find these, the sun-protective clothing might just be a gimmick.
China’s "Evaluation of Textile Ultraviolet Protection Performance," implemented since 2010, stipulates that anti-ultraviolet product labels must include three basic elements: numerical values, national standard codes, and usage instructions. Anti-ultraviolet products must have a protection factor UPF >40 and a ultraviolet A (UVA) transmission rate of less than 5%.
Reporters found that some well-known outdoor brands in Guangzhou’s outdoor clothing market do not have UV protection index labels. Store clerks said their sun-protective clothing adds UV-blocking agents and UV-resistant fabrics to the material, increasing the reflection and scattering of UV rays on the garment surface, thus providing sun protection. An industry expert stated that there is no mandatory requirement to test the UV protection coefficient of sun-protective clothing—it is voluntary. While it is non-compliant for sun-protective clothing to lack a UPF value, brands can circumvent this rule if they do not label the garment as "sun-protective clothing."
So, do sun-protective clothes really offer sun protection? A dermatologist said that professional sun-protective clothing does block UV rays and radiation, but it tends to be expensive, so ordinary people don’t need to follow the trend. Low-cost sun-protective clothing on the market often uses nylon or polyester fabrics, which are not very breathable. Prolonged contact with polyester fibers can lead to irritant contact dermatitis. For sun protection, pure cotton long sleeves actually offer better protection.
Overall gross margin approaches 50%
Despite the various "functional" issues with functional clothing, the prices are steep. A search for "waterproof jackets" on an e-commerce platform returned 172,400 products, with the highest retail price for a waterproof jacket reaching 30,000 yuan. If you’re gearing up for a "spontaneous trip," the cost might make you think twice about your spontaneity.
According to reporter estimates, at regular non-branded outdoor stores, outfitting for outdoor sports typically costs around 2,000 yuan. At a well-known outdoor specialty store, when reporters asked about the cost of gear for two people traveling to Tibet, the salesperson listed items like waterproof jackets, fleece jackets and pants, hiking boots, backpacks, and hats. Even with discounts, they estimated that 10,000 yuan would be enough for both people’s gear.
High prices also contribute to strong profits for outdoor clothing companies. Among this year’s IPO pre-disclosures, Sanfo Outdoor was one of the listed companies. Reviewing the annual reports of related clothing firms shows that between 2011 and 2013, the overall gross margins of the outdoor brand Columbia were 42.44%, 41.57%, and 43.06%, respectively, while Toread’s were 47.53%, 50.94%, and 50.02%. Over the past three years, these companies have all seen varying degrees of revenue growth. Last year, the overall gross margin of outdoor clothing brands approached 50%.
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How sun-protective clothing works
There are two principles behind professional sun-protective clothing: one is thickened fabric, which blocks UV rays by increasing fabric density; the other is adding a UV-blocking coating. Industry insiders say the cheap "sun-protective clothing" popular on the market is made of synthetic fiber materials, which are loosely woven and lack special UV-blocking coatings. Although they can block light, they do not actually prevent UV rays—in fact, they only provide the same sun protection as regular long-sleeved clothing. And for decorative lace or mesh sun-protective clothing, the UV protection effect is even weaker.