If you climb regularly, you will inevitably fall at some point; in fact, if you never fall, it may mean you’re not pushing your limits. Generally, there are two types of falls:
1. The kind you know is coming, even if only for a brief moment
2. The kind you don’t see coming, such as when a hold breaks or you suddenly drop for no obvious reason
The first type gives you a bit of time to prepare for the fall—sometimes you can even push off the wall and signal your belayer to take in slack. This allows you to adjust your body position, free up your hands, and use your feet to push against the wall to absorb the force when the rope goes tight.
Sudden falls are more dangerous because by the time you realize what’s happening, you’re already falling (that’s the surprise factor), leaving little time to react. You might swing into stationary objects or experience a sudden jolt that pulls you violently into the wall. Here are some key points to keep in mind when taking a lead fall:
1. Always keep the rope in the best possible position and trust your belayer
2. Maintain a neutral falling position to avoid falling headfirst
3. Be mindful of rope stretch to avoid long falls
4. Avoid sharp rock edges
5. Watch out for pendulum effects when traversing
6. Use your hands and feet to protect your body from hitting the wall, and grab the rope with your hands if needed to maintain balance
7. Push slightly with your feet to create distance from the wall upon falling, and use your body to cushion the impact when you hit the wall again
8. Be careful not to injure your hands or feet
9. Anticipating a fall helps you know the best way to handle it
Belayer
1. Make sure you’re safe first in order to effectively protect your climber
2. Keep your eyes on the climber at all times
3. Use proper belaying technique and be ready to catch the fall immediately
4. Never take your braking hand off the rope to avoid burning your hand
5. Keep your braking hand behind your thigh; you can even use a guide hand to add control to the brake rope
6. If the climber is heavier than you, use your feet against the wall to avoid getting pulled into it
Impact Force
When a climber falls, the energy is absorbed by the protection system and especially the rope. If the rope can effectively absorb the energy, the impact force on the climber is greatly reduced. The constant force experienced by the climber from the moment of falling until coming to a stop is called ‘impact force.’ Its value depends on the ‘fall factor/fall rate,’ the climber’s weight, and the rope’s ability to absorb energy during the fall.
Fall Factor
The fall factor determines the severity of a fall: it is calculated by dividing the length of rope paid out by the distance fallen, resulting in a ratio between 0 and 2. The higher the fall factor, the more severe the fall. Therefore, the severity is not determined by the distance fallen alone, because a longer rope length allows for more stretch to absorb the impact.
Specifications Requirements
For single ropes, specifications require that an 80 kg object falling with a fall factor of 2 must not generate an impact force exceeding 1200 kg, while a 55 kg object must not exceed 800 kg.
Impact force
It is a force generated and transmitted to the climber due to a fall, which is then conveyed along the rope to the anchor point, quickdraw, and the belayer. The rope’s protective capability lies in its ability to absorb the energy of the fall and reduce the impact force, so choosing the right rope is crucial. The quality of a rope is entirely determined by the impact force it produces during a fall and whether it can maintain this characteristic after multiple falls.
Maximum impact force
According to the standards set by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), the impact force generated during the first fall at a fall factor of 2 is the maximum impact force. It is also a fundamental characteristic used to define a rope.
The change process of impact force
During consecutive falls, the dynamic performance of the rope continuously decreases, while the resulting impact force increases. If a new rope generates an impact force close to the upper limit during the first fall, its lifespan will not be very long.
The responsibility and attitude of the belayer
Even with a highly safe belay device, safety is only 50%. The other 50% depends on the belayer. Because if the belayer does not brake the rope, the climber will still fall to the ground. Another scenario is when the belayer fails to brake the climbing rope in time, and by the time they do, the rope has been accelerated by the falling climber’s downward force. If the belayer tries to grab the rope with their hand, their hand may get burned due to friction, causing pain, and naturally, they may let go. Due to this chain of events, the climber’s life is already in great danger. Therefore, when belaying, one must stay fully alert, constantly monitor the climber’s movements, and pay extra attention if the climber encounters difficulties—the climber’s life is literally in the belayer’s hands. As a belayer, you must never let your guard down at any time.
The following are the responsibilities and attitudes a belayer should have:
Climbing
1. Ensure that both the climber and yourself are physically fit to undertake the activity
2. Ensure there are no obstacles in the climbing route area that could hinder belaying
3. Check all climbing equipment
4. Correctly and skillfully use the belay equipment
5. Ensure the climber’s harness is ‘backed up’ and the ‘backed-up figure-eight knot’ is tied correctly
6. Ensure your own harness is ‘backed up’ and the locking carabiner connected to the belay device is ‘locked’
7. Ensure the main rope is on the guiding side and the braking rope is on the braking side
8. Ensure the main rope and braking rope are not tangled
During climbing
1. Pay attention to the climber’s movements
2. Maintain communication between both parties
3. Do not chat with others or even talk on the phone
4. The belayer should frequently check whether the climbing rope is too loose, as excessive looseness will compromise protection
5. Keep a firm grip on the climbing rope with the braking hand until the climber has safely descended to the ground
6. Maintain an appropriate belay position and do not stand too far from the wall