I. Figure-Eight Belay Devices
Figure-eight belay devices were the first generation of protection tools invented by climbers. Their characteristic is a simple structure and easy operation. They require a rope diameter between 8mm and 13mm. The range of usable rope diameters is relatively wide, so figure-eight devices are very versatile and can be used in mountaineering, rock climbing, canyoneering, rescue operations, engineering, and more.
Different manufacturers produce figure-eight devices that vary slightly in appearance. As shown in the following image, the most original design is the perfectly round figure-eight. Because the round shape can easily cause the rope to twist and tangle during use, some manufacturers have improved the shape to address this issue. For example, the Huit and Huit Antibrulure models from the French company PETZL: the square-shaped Huit is designed to prevent the rope from curling and tangling, making it easier to handle; the Huit Antibrulure features a small handle that you can grip to avoid getting burned when the rope friction causes it to heat up.
Additionally, because the braking performance of figure-eight devices is not very sensitive, PETZL has also developed the Pirana, which has multiple braking positions. Its braking performance is improved when used for rappelling.
Figure 1, Round Figure-Eight
Figure 2, Huit
Figure 3, Huit Antibrulure
Figure 4, Pirana
The advantages of figure-eight belay devices are that they are sturdy and wear-resistant, and they work well even with stiffer ropes. The disadvantages are that they are somewhat bulky and have slightly inferior braking and locking performance compared to other belay devices. They are suitable for quick protection operations and fast rappelling.
II. ATC Belay Devices
When using ATC belay devices, both paying out and taking in rope are very smooth, and the rope is less likely to twist or tangle. They are simple to operate, can be used with single or double ropes, and offer better braking performance than figure-eight devices, which is why they are favored by climbers. Today, there is a wide variety of ATC devices available. Different manufacturers’ products may have slightly different functions, so it’s important to carefully read the product manual before use.
Commonly seen ATC belay devices in China include: ATC, ATC XP, ATC Guide, REVERSO, REVERSINO, and others, as shown in the following images.
Figure 5, ATC
Figure 6, ATC XP
Figure 7, ATC guide
Among them, the ATC is the earliest ATC-type belay device produced by Black Diamond, suitable for ropes with diameters from 8.5 mm to 11 mm. The ATC XP is an improved version of the ATC, which can adjust the friction at the braking end by changing the rope direction, and is suitable for ropes with diameters from 8.1 mm to 11 mm. The performance of the ATC guide is similar to that of the REVERSO; it is a belay device with self-braking capability, and by changing the rope direction, it can be used with ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm.
Figure 8, REVERSO
Figure 9, REVERSINO
The REVERSO and REVERSINO are produced by PETZL. These belay devices have undergone extensive improvements based on the ATC. In addition to the basic belaying function, their most important feature is the addition of a self-braking mode. When a climber falls, the force applied to the rope is used to press down on the free end of the rope on the REVERSO, creating a braking effect. The friction can also be adjusted by changing the rope direction or the way the carabiner is attached, for better control. The REVERSO is suitable for ropes with diameters from 8 mm to 11 mm, while the REVERSINO is suitable for ropes with diameters from 7.5 mm to 8.2 mm.
Since the braking performance of ATC-type belay devices is superior to that of figure-eight descenders, they are widely used in rock climbing and ice climbing protection.
III. Mechanical Braking Belay Devices
The GRIGRI is a belay device with a mechanical braking structure produced by PETZL, as shown in the figure below. It is used for single-rope climbing protection and rappelling, and is suitable for ropes with diameters from 10 mm to 11 mm. Its greatest advantage is the automatic braking system. Its design is entirely safety-oriented and significantly improves operational safety.
Figure 10, GRIGRI
Compared to figure-eight and ATC-type belay devices, mechanical braking devices are slightly more complex to operate. There are strict requirements for the rope installation direction, which is divided into the climbing end and the braking end. When the climbing end is suddenly tightened, the cam rapidly rotates and locks the rope to stop it. There are also certain requirements for rope feeding and taking in operations. During protection, the rope at the braking end must always be held by hand and must never be released. The speed of descent is controlled by operating the lever and holding the braking end of the rope.
Specialized Descenders and Their Features
In addition to protection, climbing belay devices can also be used for descending. In addition, there is another category of descenders specifically designed for descent. These descenders are intended solely for descending and are generally not used for climbing protection. Because they are designed only for descending, these descenders offer superior descent and locking functions.
Common specialized descenders mainly include: STOP, SIMPLE, and RACK, as shown in the figure below.
Figure 11, STOP
The STOP is used for single-rope descending and features an operating handle. When the handle is released, the automatic braking system activates. By appropriately holding the handle and pulling the rope tail, you can control the descent speed. The STOP is suitable for ropes with diameters between 9 mm and 12 mm.
Figure 12, SIMPLE
The SIMPLE is used for single-rope descending. By manually holding the rope tail, you can control the descent speed, making it most suitable for use in narrow gullies. The SIMPLE is suitable for ropes with diameters between 9 mm and 12 mm.
Figure 13, RACK
The RACK can be used for both single and double rope rappelling, adjusting speed according to rope type and load. It provides even friction, helping protect the rope, and prevents tangling during descent. When used with a single rope, the RACK requires a rope diameter between 9mm and 13mm; for double ropes, the rope diameter should be between 8mm and 11mm.
Types and Features of Ascenders
Ascenders are primarily used for ascending ropes or lifting heavy loads. Depending on their use, they can be categorized into: handle ascenders, chest ascenders, foot ascenders, and multi-purpose ascenders. Below are several ascender products manufactured by PETZL.
Figure 14, ASCENSION
The handle ascender ASCENSION is suitable for climbing fixed single ropes with diameters from 8mm to 13mm. Its ergonomic design allows for one-handed attachment to the rope, providing an optimal grip for the hand while aligning the wrist with the direction of pull. The elastic rubber handle offers a more comfortable grip. The chrome-plated steel wheel features angled teeth that can grip wet, icy, or muddy ropes. The handle ascender is also available in left-hand and right-hand versions.
Figure 15, CROLL
The chest ascender CROLL is suitable for climbing single ropes with diameters from 8mm to 13mm. It can be used in combination with the handle ascender.
Figure 16, PANTIN
The foot ascender PANTIN, when used together with the CROLL and ASCENSION ascenders, makes rope climbing easier. Using the foot ascender helps maintain an upright posture during climbing, making the process quicker and less tiring. The foot strap features an auto-locking buckle for easy adjustment. The PANTIN is not a protection device but is used to assist in rope climbing. It is designed for the right foot and suitable for single ropes with diameters from 8mm to 13mm.
Figure 17, TIBLOC
The compact ascender TIBLOC is small and portable, suitable for single ropes with diameters from 8mm to 11mm. It can be used in pulley systems and rope climbing. It is designed to be used with 10 or 12mm round or oval cross-section locking carabiners.
Figure 18, MICROCENDER
The ascender MICROCENDER is suitable for single ropes with diameters from 9mm to 13mm. It can be used for self-protection, pulley systems, or hauling heavy loads. It moves easily upward but provides reliable braking downward.
Figure 19, SHUNT
The ascending protection device SHUNT is suitable for single ropes with diameters from 10mm to 11mm or double ropes from 8mm to 11mm. It can be used for rope climbing or as a mechanical alternative to an auto-blocking knot (prusik), and can be installed below a descender as auxiliary equipment. If released during descent, it will automatically stop the descent.