Maple-red maples and ginkgo at Seimei Temple, and a nostalgic steam train ride — the top three must-visit serene getaways in Mooka

▲The only steam locomotive that runs on weekends and holidays departs from Mooka Station. (Video / shot by reporter Chen Guanzhu)

▲Visiting Seimei Temple in late autumn, you’ll be greeted by a stunning palette of maple reds and golden ginkgo leaves — a healing view for the soul.

Reported and photographed by reporter Chen Guanzhu / Mooka Town, Tochigi Prefecture

Mooka Town is primarily known for producing “Mooka-yaki” pottery and also boasts many valuable historical sites. In late autumn to early winter, the mountain scenery at Seimei Temple, with its maple reds and ginkgo yellows, along with a nostalgic old steam train rich in era memories, and even forest restaurants and kilns — every attraction is unforgettable. Especially noteworthy are the town’s top three must-visit spots, all within easy reach, making it highly convenient for travelers to enjoy the simple, nostalgic atmosphere and the beauty of nature.

▲The five-story pagoda at Seimei Temple is one of Japan’s nationally designated Important Cultural Properties.

Seimei Temple
Located on Mount Takadate, Seimei Temple may be situated in a suburban area, but it’s only about 3 kilometers from the city center, making it very accessible. Stepping into its 18-hectare grounds, you’re immediately enveloped by a serene atmosphere. Surrounded by woods and the vivid colors of maples and ginkgos, it offers a tranquil space for prayer and a delightful opportunity to stroll amidst nature.

The main hall, gate, and three-story pagoda of Seimei Temple are all designated as nationally important cultural properties in Japan. Walking up the stone stairway, on your left you’ll find the over 500-year-old three-story pagoda, while the central main hall enshrines Buddha statues dating back to 1394. Though the buildings have undergone several restorations, they largely retain their original appearance. According to the temple’s head priest, Masahiro Tanaka, the three-story pagoda symbolizes “equality” and “peace.” There are only three such pagodas over 500 years old in the region north of the Kanto area, making this one extremely rare and precious.

▲The King of Hell wears a cheerful smile, blessing everyone with peace.

Notably, one of the temple halls enshrines the famously “smiling King of Hell.” Priest Masahiro explains that in Japan, Enma (the King of Hell) is considered an incarnation of Jizo, a guardian deity. Since he is a protective figure, he isn’t meant to be frightening — which is why he’s depicted with a smile, blessing everyone with peace and well-being.

Mooka Railway
With a history spanning over a century, Mooka Railway offers breathtaking scenery along its route. As you ride the train and gaze out the window, you’ll be treated to picturesque rural landscapes. In spring, you can even catch sight of cherry blossoms and blooming rapeseed fields. The steam locomotive, which only runs on weekends and holidays, is a highlight of Mooka Railway. Interestingly, the train drivers don vintage dark blue uniforms, adding to the timeless, time-travel feel.

On the day of the steam train ride to Mooka Station, many tourists arrived early to wait on the platform to catch a glimpse of the classic locomotive. As the train approached with its signature “chug-chug” steam sounds and whistle, the excitement among the crowd lining both sides of the tracks grew. Children looked on in awe at the puffing old train, while rail enthusiasts raised their cameras to capture the rare moment.

In just around five minutes at the station, the train stirred fond memories of old-style rail travel for many. Finally, amid the cheers of onlookers, the steam train let out another puff of thick black smoke and blew its whistle as it headed off to its next destination. Watching it disappear into the distance, against the backdrop of Mooka’s quaint streets, created a scene that became one of the most beautiful memories for visitors.

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Kiln Site Yokoyama
“Mooka-yaki Kiln Site Yokoyama” combines Mooka’s natural and cultural charm, featuring a coffee shop, bakery, Mooka-yaki stores, and various restaurants. It attracts many visitors and serves as a great weekend retreat for locals. Strolling through the forest allows you to immerse yourself in nature, while admiring various “Mooka-yaki” works that exude artistic flair.

Wandering along the forest trails surrounded by pastoral scenery, you’ll eventually reach a charming wooden cabin deep within the premises — the area’s most popular forest restaurant. The meals here use homegrown vegetables and freshly baked bread and pastries from the on-site bakery, paired with different main courses. Dining here, with the rich autumn hues visible through the windows, offers an indescribably comforting and relaxing experience.

Visitors can dine here or also try their hand at a pottery workshop. With guidance from instructors, you can shape clay on the potter’s wheel. There may be a few “clumsy” moments, but don’t worry — the instructor is always there to help. The experience lasts about an hour, and once your piece is finished, you can choose your favorite design for the shop to fire it. It will become one of the best souvenirs from your trip to Mooka.