Taipei’s Old-School Afternoon Tea: Tofu Rolls & Crispy Pastries in the Alleys

Text & Photos /San Gao Eats Han

In the mornings around Anhe Road and near Tonghua Night Market, you can also find great traditional snacks that work well for breakfast or afternoon tea. Wangji Tofu Rolls and Laozhang Charcoal-Grilled Sesame Flatbread are located in the same small alley, just steps apart. If you’re worried the flatbread might be too big, go for the savory crispy pastry or the red bean pastry instead. The tofu rolls, on the other hand, come in dainty portions—perfect for a light bite rather than a full meal.

Tofu rolls are a type of noodle-based snack from the Henan and Shandong regions. They can be steamed or pan-fried. Some people call them “vegetable pythons,” probably because some versions are large and long, steamed and coiled like a serpent.

Each tofu roll is about half the size of a palm. The dough is hand-rolled, with a lightly pan-fried surface that forms a thin, crisp layer without being greasy. When you bite into it, there’s a faint aroma of the dough, while the filling includes smooth vermicelli, tender and slightly sweet cabbage, and small cubes of firm tofu with a pleasantly chewy texture—as if the tofu was stir-fried or lightly oiled before being wrapped. There’s also a decent amount of traditional Chinese spices, making the overall flavor light yet savory and smooth. After trying it plain, you can also add a bit of chili sauce.

After finishing the tofu roll, walk over to the nearby Laozhang. The chef here is said to be a successor of the famous Nangang Laozhang Pepper Buns, but this place doesn’t sell pepper buns—only sesame flatbread, savory crispy pastries, sesame candy pastries, and red bean pastries.

I bought one savory crispy pastry and one red bean pastry. Though they weren’t freshly baked, the pastries taken out from behind the counter and covered with cloth were still warm. The two small round pastries had charred marks and tightly adhered sesame seeds that didn’t fall off.

The outer layer has a mildly firm crispness—a texture I really enjoy. The aroma of sesame and charcoal grilling is rich, needless to say. The inside of the savory crispy pastry isn’t overly soft or mushy, which suits my taste perfectly. The sweetness and moisture of the scallions pair nicely with salt and pepper, creating a simple yet captivating flavor. The red bean pastry’s filling has a sweet red bean paste that’s just sweet enough without being cloying—delicious.

Wangji Tofu Rolls
Address: No. 15, Lane 38, Tonghua Street, Da’an District, Taipei City
Business Hours: 7:30 AM–7:30 PM (Closed on Sundays)

Laozhang Charcoal-Grilled Sesame Flatbread
Address: No. 19, Lane 59, Section 2, Anhe Road, Da’an District, Taipei City
Business Hours: 6:00 AM–6:00 PM

Savoring Taiwan with heart, recording delicious footsteps with care
San Gao Eats Han’s Food Journey　San Gao’s Fan Page