Homestay × Elegant Traditional Culture Experience :: Hokuriku Region :: Kanazawa :: Higashi Chaya District

During the Edo period, chaya districts were places to enjoy performances by geisha and traditional music, attracting many pleasure-seeking guests who drank and admired the shows. These skilled geisha excelled in playing the koto and shamisen, dancing, singing classical tunes, composing traditional poetry (waka), and writing haiku. Located by the Asano River in Kanazawa, Higashi Chaya was once the most famous entertainment district of its time. Turning off the main thoroughfare of Kanazawa’s Kita-Shinmachi into a quiet alley, visitors are suddenly transported back in time — the further you go, the more nostalgic the streetscape becomes. Whether it’s a local food shop, pharmacy, or souvenir store, the old-world charm of traditional establishments can be felt everywhere. On the corner sits Yu, one of the increasingly rare traditional Japanese public baths. You can smell the distinct scent of the bathhouse, and see smoke gently rising from the chimney. This entire distinctive street is the Higashi Chaya District. Like Kyoto’s Gion, Higashi Chaya in Kanazawa also follows the tradition of “Ichigen-san Okotowari,” which means refusing first-time or walk-in guests without an introduction. Because of social etiquette, payments for services in the teahouses are not collected on the spot but are instead settled later by the teahouse staff, with billing occurring only in January and August each year. This reflects the substantial capital required to run a teahouse. To avoid any potential awkwardness or inconvenience with newcomers, and to ensure smooth payment collection, teahouses have adopted this policy of turning away first-timers. Even nobility could not enter without an introduction, which contributed to the mysterious and exclusive image of the geisha culture found in these chaya districts.

In 2001, this ensemble of historic buildings with their traditional red-lacquered lattice exteriors was designated as a National Important Traditional Buildings Preservation District. The standout features of these structures are the two-story wooden houses and finely crafted vermilion latticed windows. Though the interiors may no longer reflect their original grandeur, the architectural shells have preserved the historical ambiance of the area. Although you can no longer see the lively scenes of the past, the cultural essence of the buildings remains vivid. Wandering through the district during the day allows visitors to feel the historical charm of the area.

Some of the traditional buildings in Kanazawa’s chaya districts have been converted into homestays for tourists, and they are extremely popular. About half of the guests who stay here are international travelers. The hosts treat their guests like family, allowing them to slowly savor the journey through Japan together. These historic homes were renovated and began operating as homestays in 2007. In addition to accommodation, guests can opt to experience activities such as “ikebana” (flower arranging) or wearing “kimono.” The homestays accommodate around 2–3 guests per night, with prices starting from 50,400 JPY (including breakfast).

Travel in Kanazawa

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