A Pilgrimage to the Smangus Tribe: Feel the Pulse of the Earth

Located in Jianshi Township, Hsinchu County, Smangus is known as the “Mysterious Black Tribe” due to its remote location. The Atayal people, who are devout Catholics, believe this place to be the “Tribe of God.” Perhaps it is because of God’s blessing that this hidden paradise has been preserved to this day, resulting in an isolated, beautiful tribe and rare pristine mountain landscapes, as well as majestic stands of ancient trees.

 

To get close to the mysterious Smangus, you must cross several mountain ridges. After entering Neiwan in Hsinchu and passing through Jianshi, turn onto County Road Zhuxian 60 and head up the mountain. Upon reaching Xiuluan, you must obtain a mountain entry permit to proceed. Then, take a left at the fork before Tagang Tribe to arrive at Smangus. This long and winding mountain road, though bumpy and challenging, is accompanied by stunning scenery—giant rocks, mist, and layers of verdant peaks—that fills you with wonderful anticipation for the hidden wonderland ahead.

Surrounded by mountains, Smangus offers a leisurely walk along the “Mystery Valley” trail within the tribe. Strolling along the forest path, you can hear the crisp sound of colorful fallen leaves under your feet, while two-needle pine, five-needle pine, and the cones of yellow cedar hide beneath them, plump and charming. When the increasingly clear sound of a stream drifts from afar, Mystery Valley is just around the corner. From there, you can gaze at waterfalls and the crystal-clear, emerald Tachin River, whose waters sparkle brilliantly under the afternoon sun. A gentle mountain breeze, rustling pine waves, and a shower of fallen leaves make it a truly delightful experience.

In the evening, Smangus takes on the cozy charm of a small mountain town with smoke gently rising from households. Independent tribal cottages are busy cooking unique mountain delicacies, and wisps of smoke slowly drift from chimneys built by the locals, creating a serene scene in the mountain dusk. Mist drifting in from afar mingles with the cooking smoke over Smangus, and as the smoke disperses and the clouds gather, night gradually falls. First-time visitors to Smangus can try the Atayal-style dinner at the “Smoke-Free Restaurant.” Traditional cooking methods enhance the sweetness and flavor of high-mountain vegetables. Due to the Indigenous people’s philosophy of taking from nature in moderation and allowing it to rest and regenerate, the food here carries an added sense of gratitude toward nature.

Some say that visiting Smangus without walking among the giant tree grove is like not truly touching the soul of the tribe. The best time to visit the red cypress giants is in the morning light. Due to the late development of the tribe, the forest and ecology remain relatively intact. The lush bamboo groves at the beginning of the trail offer shade from the sun, making the walk cool, serene, and otherworldly. As you continue along the hiking trail, you’ll often find yourself treading over intertwined tree roots, and occasionally emerging from the woods to be moved by the vastness and clarity of the surrounding mountain ranges. The diverse ecosystem attracts a rich variety of birds, such as the white-eared sibia, crested goshawk, yellow-bellied bulbul, and Taiwan barbet—all common and delightful companions along the journey.

The Giant Tree Grove hiking trail is about 5 kilometers long. Though the elevation gain is moderate, it still requires some effort. It’s recommended to carry enough food and water in your backpack just in case. However, the long trek is well worth it. Walking from the ancient tribe into the primeval forest, the spirit of every plant and tree seems to whisper through the wind. When you start to break a light sweat, whether you sit facing the gentle mountains or gaze up at towering red cypresses, the sounds of the valley become a profound baptism in the lives of travelers.

Read more: Northeastern Shirakami-Sanchi (Provided by Tripass Scenic Spots)