Visit the Hometown of Kokeshi Dolls: A Dreamy Onsen Retreat in Naruko, Miyagi

Tohoku in Japan is rich in hot springs, and Naruko Onsen in Miyagi Prefecture, near Yamagata, not only boasts a history of development spanning a thousand years but is also renowned for its diverse spring qualities. Among Japan’s 11 types of hot spring waters, nine originate from Naruko Onsen — it’s no exaggeration to call it the originator among hot spring towns.

Naruko Onsen actually includes several areas: Onikoshi, Naruko, Kawatabi, Higashi-Naruko, and Nakayamadaira. Especially in the Naruko area, the hot spring town is filled with countless inns of all sizes, while the hot spring shopping street is lined with shops selling must-haves like onsen manju (sweet buns), onsen tamago (boiled eggs), and handicrafts. Among the handicrafts, Naruko lacquerware and Naruko kokeshi dolls are the most popular.

The Tounoyu Sento (public bathhouse) within the hot spring town has a history of over a thousand years and features two types of baths: one made of hinoki (Japanese cypress) and another of rock. The baths are separated by gender, and there's also a "takigyo" experience — a bathing method where a powerful jet of water pours down to massage your body. The yellow-walled Waseda Shikiyu, originally named Waseda-yu, was discovered by students from Waseda University during the Showa era. The locals in the Naruko region have carefully preserved the spring source and developed it into a public bathhouse, which also offers separate-gender baths and rentable open-air baths.

Naruko is not only known for its hot springs but also for its two other charms: valleys and kokeshi dolls. The Naruko Gorge valley, which surrounds the Naruko Onsen area, is actually some distance away from the hot spring town. The best way to explore it is to take a bus from the hot spring town or the train station to Naruko Tropical Botanical Garden, located deep within Naruko Gorge. The tropical botanical garden may not be very appealing to those from subtropical regions, but it is also the starting and ending point of the Nakayamadaira Onsen hiking trail along the Naruko Gorge Nature Walk. Walking from the botanical garden to the Oya Bridge at the entrance of Naruko Gorge is just 2.6 kilometers — a moderate distance that allows you to enjoy the breathtaking views of deep valleys and cliffs with ease.

Kokeshi dolls are the most iconic handicraft representing Naruko Onsen. Their simple, adorable, and expressionless faces, when paired with items like cookies, manju, cutlery, or matchboxes, become incredibly charming souvenirs. Kokeshi figures can be seen everywhere in the hot spring town, serving as the friendliest ambassadors of Naruko Onsen. What makes Naruko kokeshi unique is that their heads are movable — a gentle twist produces a cute “jii” sound. Unlike kokeshi from other regions that are carved as a single piece, Naruko kokeshi are crafted by first sculpting the body and then inserting the head into a hole using an inlay technique. This process requires considerable skill and experience, and the resulting kokeshi feature delicate and lovely curves that are simply irresistible.

Transportation: Take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen to “Furukawa” Station, then transfer to the JR Rikuu East Line and ride for about 50 minutes to arrive at “Naruko Onsen” Station.
Info: http://www.naruko.gr.jp/

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