Roaming in Chiang Mai & Lanna / Made in Thailand. Part 2

Text & Photography / Chen Yu’an | Collaborating Organization / Tourism Authority of Thailand

If you’ve ever marveled at the delicate ceramic tile or stained glass mosaics of Bangkok’s Grand Palace and Wat Ratchanatdaram, then Chiang Rai’s Wat Lung Khun is even more stunning.

Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are home to many historic temples, typically characterized by their resplendent gold decorations and vibrant color schemes. Yet Wat Lung Khun in Chiang Rai is a pure white temple based on a white foundation adorned with mirrored mosaic pieces. Its completion is estimated to take 60 years. In the 12 years since construction began, only the main hall has been completed so far—it’s no exaggeration to call it Thailand’s Sagrada Família.

A prodigal son’s return, 60 years crafting Thailand’s Sagrada Família
The designer, Chalermchai, was originally an uneducated delinquent who unexpectedly got admitted to Bangkok’s College of Fine Arts. Despite skepticism, he carved out his own path through hard work. When his hometown needed a temple renovation, he returned to help, drawing on his years of experience painting murals in temples. Even as the scope of restoration grew larger, he refused donations exceeding ten thousand Thai baht, funding the project almost entirely with proceeds from selling his own paintings. As a result, signs around the temple’s commercial area clearly state they have nothing to do with the temple—avoiding any appearance of profiting off tourism.

As a modern design creation, within the framework of a traditional temple, there are still many details infused with the designer’s humor. For instance, before entering the main hall, there is a sculpture symbolizing the lake of hellfire—iron-gray hands emerging from the mud, some clenched into fists, others holding bowls, but one hand uniquely flips the middle finger, its nail painted red with nail polish.

Additionally, as a serene Buddhist sanctuary, there are two ornate signs identical in style to the temple itself on the left side of the entrance: one holds a bottle of liquor and a skull, the other a pack of cigarettes, with Thai text stating: “Being drunk and smoking are sins—do not enter.” On the left side of the main hall stands a resplendent building, which is neither a side hall nor a library, but a toilet. Unfortunately, only the exterior is complete—the interior is not yet open. It has, however, become a popular photo spot for visitors.

Royal branding, giving back to the community
Near Chiang Mai University lies Nimmanhaemin Street. Over five years ago, the area had only one tourist hotel and a few new residential buildings. Through deliberate planning by local authorities, it has now become Chiang Mai’s most famous design street. A variety of boutique shops have moved in, offering handmade crafts, textiles and clothing, tin and silver accessories, lifestyle goods, and more. The range of original products is diverse, and there are many unique little cafés nearby. One worth mentioning is Doi Tung, located on the main road behind the Amari Hotel, with a sign featuring a portrait of an Akha person.

Doi Tung is actually the name of a mountainous area near Chiang Rai close to the Golden Triangle. In the past, due to issues such as opium poppy cultivation, it was a grey area that the Thai government struggled to manage. In 1983, the mother of King Bhumibol of Thailand initiated a plan to control opium through soft appeals focusing on education and health. The first step was establishing schools for local ethnic minorities, teaching children about the true nature of drugs while helping parents understand the positive impact of education on their children’s futures. As a result, the opium problem was resolved. Later, the Mea Fah Luang Foundation was established, setting up the Opium Museum in Chiang Rai to provide a detailed introduction to the pros and cons of drugs and their history, with a strong emphasis on educating people about the harms of drug use.