
Photo & Text byNathan Yung
【Japanese Food & Travel Info – Captain Nacha takes you through ringing in the New Year in Japan】
For Japanese people, the last day of the year is called 【Ōmisoka】 “大晦日おおみそか”, which is what we commonly refer to as New Year’s Eve. But isn’t New Year’s Eve based on the lunar calendar? After the Meiji Restoration, Japan adopted the current Gregorian calendar, so New Year’s Eve became December 31. The “Bell Ringing for Ōmisoka” refers to the bells rung on this night—107 strikes before midnight and one more after, totaling 108.

Q: Captain Nacha, I’m just a tourist—no need to give me a history lesson.
Don’t say you don’t want to hear it—I find history a headache too. I just want to eat, drink, and have fun, haha. So let’s just remember to 【go where the action is】 on December 31. Leave the “big year-end clean-up—おおそうじ” to the locals at home, okay?
First, find a soba noodle shop at night and eat “Toshikoshi Soba – 年越し荞麦”
But it’s hard to find a good one that night—many shops close early or shut down for the holidays. It’s best to go earlier, even in the afternoon if you spot one. Eat as much as you like; you can even go for an all-you-can-eat soba place, but you must finish your bowl—otherwise, you’re in for bad luck.


Q: But I’m Taiwanese—does it matter?
As long as you’re still in Japan, unless you’re catching a flight out before midnight, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.
The long, thin soba noodles symbolize peace and longevity. Wouldn’t it be a shame not to finish them? Don’t be hard on yourself—especially since luck and wealth are things we ourselves wish for during Lunar New Year back in Taiwan.
If you don’t finish your soba, you’re not allowed to see Captain Nacha for the whole year. How would I know you won’t bring the bad luck spirit back from Japan with you?
Second, have a nice, hearty New Year’s Eve dinner
A major entertainment event on Japanese New Year’s Eve is the singing extravaganza—the NHK Kōhaku Uta Gassen “Red and White Song Battle – 红白歌合戦”. Find somewhere to stay and watch it. Chances are, any restaurant you go to will have the TV tuned to that channel.
If there’s no traditional New Year’s Eve feast “Osechi Ryori – おせち料理”, just pick a restaurant and make do. Order lots of dishes, and make sure it looks plentiful—otherwise, it’ll feel a bit lonely.

And definitely don’t choose an empty restaurant—that’d be way too desolate and depressing. Even raising a toast feels off. Unless, like Captain Nacha in December 31, 2015, you randomly gather a group and end up having a New Year’s Eve dinner together.

Third, eat your fill, then head out for a stroll and get in line
【The main temple X? ... at night gets super lively】. At this time, it gets really crowded. Everyone heads there to ring in the New Year. The most important thing is to find a good spot, because only if you’re there can you take cool commemorative photos.

▲New Year’s Eve – group photo with fellow travelers
Head to Zojoji Temple. First, snap a photo with Tokyo Tower, then slowly walk over to Zojoji and join the long queue, waiting around for the bell to ring. But remember to use the restroom a few times beforehand.
Nacha knows the crowds at Zojoji can be overwhelming—you’ll feel it as soon as you exit the station. Naturally, she considered backing out. She’s lived in Tokyo for over ten years, even done Disney New Year’s countdowns, but decided to find a more relaxed spot to ring in the New Year. Luckily, the Captain had a connection and took everyone to a lesser-known place—【Takanawa Musubi Daishi – Koyasan Tokyo Betsuin】.

There were almost no tourists there, allowing the Captain to find inner peace and blessings bestowed by Kobo Daishi. Kobo Daishi is a historical figure—just imagine being blessed. Staying mindful brings good fortune.
The bell ringing here is super easy—there’s hardly anyone in line, making it much more relaxing compared to other sites. Plus, you can watch the New Year’s Eve Buddhist ceremony up close (Nacha doesn’t know much about Japanese Buddhism, so we’ll just call it that).
You can even be the first to write on the big ema plaque!


▲Be the first—naturally write a message of blessing for the group
The large ema has two sides—choose whichever side is easier to write on. But come early and there’ll be no competition, since most Japanese are probably still at home watching Kōhaku.
Be sure to go inside and watch the temple’s ceremony. Don’t forget to offer some coins as a donation. The ceremony goes from midnight to 1 a.m.

▲Inside the temple – before the ceremony begins
During the ceremony, in addition to chanting, there are several rituals you can observe up close.

▲ Buddhist ceremony and scripture chanting

▲ New Year’s address and blessings from the temple

▲ While wandering around, don’t forget to line up to ring the bell before midnight
The most important thing is ringing in the New Year’s bell — don’t forget it. People start lining up around 11:30 PM, so just relax and wait your turn to ring the bell. After that, you can take the train home.
Don’t worry about trains on New Year’s Eve — there will definitely be service, operating through the night.
Details:https://blog-transit.yahoo.co.jp/info/20161220.html
Nacha visits as a tourist with a respectful attitude, and everyone is asked to do the same. Please be respectful, avoid loud noises or littering.
Note:
Below are places easily accessible to tourists, 【only Senso-ji Temple allows viewing the bell ringing, not personal ringing】.
Chuo Ward
Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple after the 11 PM ceremony
Right next to Tsukiji.
Minato Ward
Head Temple X? Senrin Yuunu? from 12 AM
Next to Tokyo Tower
Taito Ward
Senso-ji Temple from 12 AM
Not sure where Senso-ji is? It’s by the Kaminarimon Gate ~~~~
Japanese lesson:
New Year’s Eve — Ōmisoka (おおみそか)
Year-end cleaning — Ōsōji (おおそうじ)
New Year’s dishes — Osechi ryōri (おせち料理)
Soba noodles — Soba (そば)
Red and White Song Festival — Kōhaku Uta Gassen (こうはくうたがっせん)
Countdown — Countdown (カウントダウン)
New Year’s Eve Bell — Jōya no Kane (除夜の鐘)
First sunrise of the New Year — Hatsuhinode (初日の出)
【Takanawa Musubi Daishi, Koyasan Tokyo Betsuin】
Nearest station?
Takanawadai Station (都営大江戸線, approx. 100m, about a 10-minute walk)
Sengakuji? (Tokyo Metro Toei Asakusa Line, Toei Oedo Line): 0.0 km, a 10-minute walk
Shirokanedai? (Tokyo Metro Namboku Line, Toei Oedo Line): 0.5 km, a 13-minute walk
Shirokane-Takanawa? (Tokyo Metro Namboku Line, Toei Oedo Line): 0.6 km, a 14-minute walk
Shinagawa? (JR): 1.1 km, a 13-minute walk
Inquiries
* Takanawa Yui Master Koyasan Tokyo Betsuin
0-108-0074 Minato City, Takanawa 3-chome 15-18
Phone number / 03-3441-3338 Fax number / 03-3447-2243
Nathan Yung 'Japanese Food Travel Information
Nathan Yung, leader of “Japanese Food Travel Information,” has self-funded and invested millions since 2012 to explore Japan. Based on Taiwanese culinary taste and inspired by Japanese cuisine, he has traveled across Japan sampling its food with his remarkable palate talent. In Taiwan, he continuously reads extensively and cooks hands-on with dedication. He is currently compiling his insights into a book, scheduled for release by the end of 2016.
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