A Fuzhou Symphony of Aged Liquor, Red Yeast Rice, and Seafood — Grandma Yi’s Shop in Matsu

Text & Photography by Chen Guanxin

Located in Nangan Township, Matsu, “Grandma Yi’s Shop” can be reached by walking down a small path next to the Lienchiang County Council for about five minutes. Along the way, you’ll see nothing but classic stone buildings with stacked roof tiles in the traditional five-ridge, four-slope or one-ridge, two-slope designs, which are iconic features of Eastern Fujian architectural style. Grandma Yi’s Shop is tucked away among these many stone houses.

Steamed Yellow Croaker with Aged Liquor is a must-order classic Matsu dish for locals. Fresh yellow croaker is cooked with Matsu aged liquor, where the rich, mellow aroma of the liquor envelops the tender fish meat. The delicate texture slowly melts in your mouth, offering an indescribably wonderful taste. But don’t be fooled into thinking this is a complicated dish — just one fresh yellow croaker, a few slices of ginger, garlic, salt, and Matsu aged liquor, and it’s ready to serve after steaming.

At first glance, the dish names “Mussels” (淡菜) and “Turtle Claws” (龟爪) hardly bring shellfish to mind, but they are also classic dishes in Matsu. Mussels, also known as “moules” or called “shell vegetables” in the Fuzhou dialect, are simply blanched before serving. The thick, chewy mussel meat bursts with the briny flavors of the sea in every bite, making it hard not to have a second one. Turtle Claws, also known as Buddha’s Hand, are a rare type of shellfish in Taiwan, named for their resemblance to a brush rack. To eat, simply pry out the meat like shelling sunflower seeds. Though the meat portion is small, the delicious, crisp, and tender flavor is second to none.

They say you can tell how skilled a chef is by their fried rice. At Grandma Yi’s Shop, making good fried rice isn’t rare — but Red Yeast Rice Fried Rice is truly exceptional. Red yeast rice is a common seasoning in Fuzhou cuisine. When combined with fried rice, not only does the sweetness from the sautéed onions pair perfectly with the egg flavor, but each grain of rice, coated in egg and separated, is also infused with the aromatic scent of the lees, making your mouth water.