Addicted after one bite！Must-try authentic crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside “stinky tofu” in Yuli, Hualien

▲ Hidden in the town of Yuli, Hualien, Qiaotou Stinky Tofu is genuinely crispy on the outside and tender on the inside — super delicious. (Photo / Reporter Li Zi-yi)

Reported and photographed by Reporter Li Zi-yi / Hualien

In Yuli, Hualien, there’s a crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside “stinky tofu” that only locals know about. This unassuming roadside stall sees a constant stream of customers in the small town of Yuli. Now in its 51st year, the second-generation owner, Mr. Yang, took over from his mother and has been tirelessly perfecting the recipe to make the stinky tofu even more delicious — adjusting everything from the soy sauce to the pickles to achieve the perfect balance. The result is such tasty stinky tofu that customers have excitedly said they’re “addicted after just one bite”!

Originally, this trip was to visit the Pushi Art Museum for a T-shirt dyeing DIY experience and to soak in the town’s growing tourism charm. By chance, we passed by Qiaotou Stinky Tofu, and a local guide’s comment — “this stinky tofu is really famous” — piqued everyone’s interest.

▲ Qiaotou Stinky Tofu, located right across from the Pushi Art Museum.

The unassuming roadside stall, even during an off-peak afternoon visit, was filled with customers having snacks. The crowd was mostly local students and residents, with just us few out-of-towners dropping by. Unlike typical stinky tofu stalls, the pungent smell doesn’t hit you from afar.

▲ Pickles, shredded white radish, and basil are part of the secret to the stinky tofu’s deliciousness.

Owner Mr. Yang laughs that he’s extremely meticulous and is constantly researching how to make his stinky tofu even tastier. From the soy milk and black tea to the soy sauce and pickles — everything has been adjusted to its optimal flavor. In August 2016, he opened his own factory to produce tofu that meets his exacting standards.

▲ Although it goes through three different fryers, the serving speed isn’t slower than your average stinky tofu stall.

Mr. Yang explained that the frying area gets extremely hot, with three fryers in use. To handle this, he built a brick kiln using fireproof bricks and soil — frying the stinky tofu in a brick kiln is also quite rare.

▲ The three fryers, each set at a different oil temperature, are the key to the tofu’s crispy outside and tender inside.

Each serving of stinky tofu goes through three fryers set at varying temperatures — 80°C, 120°C, and finally 240°C — resulting in tofu that’s crispy on the outside yet tender within. The crust is crunchy without being harsh on the mouth, fried to absolute perfection. Paired with tangy, crisp pickles, refreshing shredded radish, a hint of basil for aroma, and a light sweet soy sauce for dipping, it’s simply divine.

▲ The stinky tofu is really, truly tender.

The first bite might surprise you — the tofu is “tender,” forming a sharp contrast with the crispy skin. It’s not an overly strong or pungent stinky tofu that could clear out the next alley. Instead, it’s refreshingly balanced and incredibly moreish, making it easy to polish off the whole plate.

▲ The owner also secretly recommends a “hidden combo”: mix the shop’s black tea and soy milk in a 3:1 ratio — it pairs even better with the stinky tofu!

Even back in Taipei a week later, I still found myself missing this serendipitous stinky tofu encounter. Discovering Taiwan’s towns through taste gave me a uniquely wonderful impression of Yuli.

▲ Qiaotou Stinky Tofu.

Address: No. 15, Minquan Street, Yuli Township, Hualien County