
Text and photos by /Kavana
Located in Nagaokakyō, “Nagaoka Tenmangū” is a place closely associated with Japan’s deity of learning, “Sugawara no Michizane.” When Michizane was serving as a court official, he and his close friend “Ariwara no Yukihira” often visited this area for sightseeing and poetry. Later, after Michizane was falsely accused and exiled to Dazaifu (present-day Dazaifu, Fukuoka Prefecture), it is said that he left the words “My soul will remain here for a long time” as he passed through this place. After Michizane’s death, a wooden statue carved by his own hand began to be enshrined here, marking the origin of Nagaoka Tenmangū. The shrine has been highly regarded by successive imperial families and once possessed a vast estate of over 100,000 tsubo. After the Meiji Restoration, the estate was drastically reduced, and it now covers approximately 20,000 tsubo.
The most famous seasonal scenery at Nagaoka Tenmangū is the azaleas in mid-April. However, like many shrines and temples in Japan, it also features cherry blossoms and autumn foliage within its grounds, making it a well-known spot for autumn leaf viewing.

Nagaoka Tenmangū is not far from the Hankyu Railway’s “Nagaoka-Tenjin” Station. It takes about a 10-minute walk from the station to see the stone torii gate of Nagaoka Tenmangū.




In front of Nagaoka Tenmangū is a large pond called “Hachijōke Pond.” The pond has a circumference of about one kilometer and was built in 1638 by the then-feudal lord, Hachijō-no-miya (an imperial prince), with the purpose of storing water for agricultural irrigation.


Along the shores of Hachijōke Pond are a row of buildings that make up the ryotei (Japanese restaurant) “Kinjisutei.” The reflection of the buildings on the lake surface is stunningly beautiful.

Spanning Hachijōke Pond and connecting the grand torii gate to the main shrine is a drum bridge (taikobashi). The sides of the taikobashi are planted with “Kirishima Tsutsuji” (Rhododendron obtusum), or Kirishima azaleas, which attract large numbers of visitors when they bloom brilliantly every mid-April.








The maple garden “Kinkeien” is a relatively recently completed maple-viewing garden and is also the area within Nagaoka Tenmangū where the maple foliage is the densest.

The building surrounded by red leaves above is the “Uma Hall,” and the pond below is the “Benten Pond.”



Benten Pond.







Continuing to climb up the stone steps leads you to the shrine buildings.


After leaving the shrine buildings, I headed toward the entrance area near Kinjisutei.



Hachijōke Pond.


After walking around in a circle, I returned to the area near the entrance grand torii gate and stopped by the pond for a while, admiring the beautiful buildings and autumn leaves across the water.
Nagaoka Tenmangū Visiting Information:
Visiting Hours: Free access within the grounds.
Admission: Free.
Transportation: A 10-minute walk from Hankyu Railway “Nagaoka-Tenjin” Station
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Kavana X Japanese Travel Obsession
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