Traditional Japanese Farmhouse Cuisine of the Seasons – Rinnasa Kaminoie in Miyagi

Text & Photography / MOOK Scenic Spots Travel Life Network, Chen Guanxin

The moment you step into “Rinnasa Kaminoie,” it’s hard not to be drawn to the irori hearth with its burning charcoal and the dining space made up of over ten tatami mats and rows of traditional tableware. The warmth of the hearth’s smoldering charcoal, the deep brown lacquered beams supporting white walls, and the wooden sliding doors used as room dividers seem to transport all five senses back to the Meiji era, reviving fragments of ancient memories.

The century-old house that houses “Rinnasa Kaminoie” sits quietly amidst green countryside. Were it not for local guidance, one might never imagine it to be a restaurant serving traditional northeastern Japanese farm cuisine. The building was damaged during the major earthquake and had to temporarily close for repairs. During this period, five women, including the owner, Yukiko Okuno, continued to hone their cooking skills every day, waiting for the day they could reopen.

Stepping through the garden and into the house, you’ll find the owner, Yukiko Okuno, sitting by the irori hearth, greeting everyone with a smile and a voice as soft as silk. Such warmth is palpable even to non-Japanese-speaking guests. Her smile, as heartwarming as that of a grandmother doting on her grandchildren, once earned her a spot on a local advertisement.

For 11 years since opening, the menu has changed according to seasonal local vegetables, with only one set meal available each season. The price is uniformly set at 1,575 yen (approx. 97 yuan). Without language barriers, foreign visitors can easily enjoy the homely flavors of Japan’s northeast. As the waitstaff gradually place crimson tableware filled with dishes on the table, the simple ingredients and presentation echo the understated dining space, bringing eating back to its most pure and comfortable state.