A Cool Summer in Miyagi: A Hot Spring Journey through Naruko’s Ancient Springs and Zaō’s Breathtaking Views

Text & Photography / MOOK Scenic Spots Family Travel Life Network, Chen Guanxin

Sunlight filters gently through the curtains into the room, the air infused with the crisp fragrance of greenery, while clean and tidy streets are occasionally graced by the slow passage of vehicles. Dressed casually in a yukata, I stroll leisurely toward the breakfast area. The morning hot spring bath has awakened my mind and invigorated my body. As the Japanese guide said, after three immersions—before dinner, after dinner, and before breakfast the next day—one can truly appreciate the wonders of hot springs.

Located in northeastern Japan, Miyagi Prefecture enjoys an average summer temperature that is about 5–6°C lower than other parts of Taiwan, with nighttime temperatures around 20°C. These comfortable summer nights continue to draw many hot spring-loving tourists.

Miyagi Prefecture can be roughly divided into areas such as Sendai & Matsushima, Southern District, Sanriku, and Northern District, each boasting renowned hot spring destinations. Among them, the historic and diverse Naruko Onsen in the northern district, and the stunningly scenic and upscale Zaō-Yamagata Okama Onsen in the southern district, are the two most distinctive hot spring regions in Miyagi.

A Millennium-Old Famous Spring — Naruko Onsen

The highly acclaimed Naruko Onsen is located in Ōsaki City, Miyagi Prefecture, and collectively refers to the hot springs of Onikōbe, Higashi-Naruko, Naruko, Nakayamadaira, and Kawabata. With a history of 1,100 years since its discovery, local guides say that out of the 11 types of hot spring mineral waters found in Japan, Naruko Onsen boasts nine. Thanks to its rich variety of spring types and long development history, it is ranked among the “Three Great Hot Springs of the Tohoku Region” alongside Fukushima’s Iizaka Onsen and Akayu Onsen, and even earned the title “East’s Yokozuna.” When visiting Naruko Onsen, take your time to fully immerse yourself in its natural and cultural beauty.

Kamiishibu Jigokudani Geyser

Located in the northernmost Kamiishibu Onsen area, it is said that during the Nara Period 1,200 years ago, the indigenous “Emishi” people of Tohoku resisted the Yamato forces attempting to rule over Mutsu. A brave and fierce warrior known as “Oni” (demon), named Ōtake Maru, was defeated by the famous Yamato general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro. His severed head flew to the area now known as Kamiishibu, hence the name “Oni no Kubi” (Demon’s Head).