National cultural heritage celebrated with the public: Takayama Festival floats hit the road in dazzling display on October 9

By MOOK Scenic Spots Family Travel Life Network, reported by Chen Guanxin. Materials provided by Mook Editorial Department

As one of Japan’s Three Great Festivals, the Takayama Matsuri takes place annually in October 9–10 during the brilliant season of crimson leaves and golden ginkgo trees. This autumn iteration is also known as the Hachiman Matsuri, a seasonal festival for locals preparing for winter. Among the many festival elements, the “yatai,” or parade floats, are the main attraction that draws countless visitors each year. These floats have even been designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. Among the intricately crafted and vibrantly decorated yatai, the most remarkable are those fitted with robotic dolls that can dance and turn to face the spectators. Their remarkably lifelike performances often draw enthusiastic applause. When the floats are unveiled once a year, they not only attract tourists from Japan and abroad, but are also frequently covered live by international media outlets.

The Takayama Matsuri, held in Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture, is divided into the Spring Sanno Matsuri and the Autumn Hachiman Matsuri. Though the origins of the Takayama Matsuri are unclear, it is believed to have begun between 1586 and 1692, during the rule of the Kanamori clan, the feudal lords of Hida Province. The star attractions of the festival—the yatai—were established in terms of structure and performance style by 1718. These resplendent and elaborately designed floats have long been funded by Takayama’s wealthy merchant class, known as the “Sanmachi-shu,” and are crafted by master artisans of Hida—renowned carpenters, sculptors, and lacquerware artists—with the highest levels of craftsmanship.

During the Autumn Hachiman Matsuri, a total of 11 yatai are paraded, distinct from the 12 used in the spring edition, and arguably even more magnificent. Among them, the renowned Dashi-Kosode float, or "Furoku float," features an extraordinarily intricate mechanical doll operated by eight people using 36 ropes, making it a masterpiece among Takayama’s yatai. The performance of the Furoku float is always the highlight of the Hachiman Matsuri. Its mechanical dolls include a monk resembling a smiling Maitreya Buddha and two small wooden puppets. The monk appears first, walking out to the extendable platform extending from the float to greet the audience. Then, the small puppets emerge from a mid-air bamboo swing—and despite having no strings or wires, the wooden puppets tumble through the air and land perfectly on the monk’s shoulders. Aside from the endearing and seemingly spirited movements of the monk doll, which amuse the crowd with its playful gestures, the scene becomes even more delightful when the monk, now with the little puppet perched on his shoulder, spins around joyfully to the suddenly fast-paced shamisen music. Eventually, a colored ball on the bamboo swing bursts open, scattering confetti everywhere, while a colorful cloth held in the monk’s left hand suddenly unfurls, leaving the audience mesmerized and clapping until their hands are red.

It is said that the secrets behind the Furoku float’s performance are closely guarded, passed down only to a select few masters who perform on it and are sworn to never reveal the techniques to outsiders. In any case, these techniques, which originated in China, have been researched and preserved by Takayama’s artisans for over 200 years through generations.

The festival’s yatai are usually stored in special float depots throughout the year. On the morning of the festival at 9:00 AM, the yatai are pulled to Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine by crews dressed in traditional-style uniforms—an amusing and fascinating sight in itself. Tourists often stake out their favorite floats and follow them on their way to the shrine. The “Omikoshi” procession includes up to a thousand participants, along with portable shrines, lion dances, kagura performances, gagaku court music, and cockfighting performances, creating a lively atmosphere that lasts all day. As night falls, the yatai are illuminated by hundreds of lanterns, adding to their splendor. The second day of the festival continues with similar festivities, and at dusk, under the direction of taiko drummers on the Kagura float, the yatai are returned one by one to their storage depots, resting until next autumn’s grand performance.

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