A one-day stroll along Tamsui Old Street to explore the beauty of the Tamsui River as depicted by literary masters

Text and photos / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Travel Life Network

Whether it’s the rows of delicious street snacks by the river mouth that satisfy every food lover, or the walk along the old street where ancient and modern buildings stand side by side, blending uniquely with the local harmony and tranquility—there are a thousand reasons to love Tamsui. In the early days, as the setting sun cast its dazzling glow, painting the brick houses, tile roofs, and foreign churches along the Tamsui River in brilliant reds of serenity and splendor, painter Chen Cheng-po chose to rent a place on Reconstruction Street just to be close to the Tamsui River. This also led to the creation of his renowned work "Sunset in Tamsui," which later fetched a staggering NT$210 million at auction and is highly sought after by collectors. Similarly, literary figure Wang Changxiong and Oriental painting master Shizuya Kinoshita were inspired by the beauty of Tamsui to compose numerous popular and timeless melodies and artworks.

The highest auction price for a work by a Taiwanese painter—Chen Cheng-po

The Red House in Tamsui, situated at a high vantage point, offers sweeping views of the sunsets over Guandu and the Tamsui estuary. It was once a favorite gathering spot for Taiwanese literati, political figures, and business elites in the early days, including famous painters like Chen Cheng-po. However, it is most renowned for Chen Cheng-po’s painting "Sunset in Tamsui," created from the Red House overlooking the streets of Tamsui. The piece was sold for approximately NT$210 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong “Chinese Contemporary Art” auction, setting the record for the highest price ever paid for a work by a Taiwanese painter.

The spot where Chen Cheng-po once painted the sea view is located at the right side of the staircase in the front courtyard of the Red House. A fiery red brick building is set against the blue sea and sky to the left, delicately capturing the brilliance and serenity of Tamsui’s sunset. Sadly, the once breathtaking view from the same spot has been marred by later constructions. Today, only the distant spire of a Gothic-style building remains as a reference point, otherwise it would be hard to recognize this as the actual location that inspired Chen Cheng-po’s brushstroke-by-brushstroke masterpiece, "Sunset in Tamsui."

The Former Residence of Japanese Oriental Painting Master—Shizuya Kinoshita’s Home

Descending the staircase, the late Qing Dynasty–style building below is the former residence of Shizuya Kinoshita, a master of Oriental painting in Taiwan. Although the stunning panoramic views of Tamsui’s landscapes are now obstructed by later constructions, the Japanese-style gardens flanking the Red House and nearby residences still exude an elegant and tranquil charm. Especially when looking down the staircase from the alleyway behind the Red House, there’s a delightful sense of discovery akin to finding a hidden spring after a dark path.

Originally named Genjūrō Kinoshita, Shizuya Kinoshita passed through Taiwan during a trip to China in 1918. Due to a fellow traveler falling ill, he stayed in Taiwan and rented a place at what locals called “Three-Story House,” the current site. From the second floor of his residence, he could overlook Guanyin Mountain and the Tamsui estuary. Thus, he often used the lush green hues of Guanyin Mountain and the changing seasonal clouds as themes, complemented by the serene breadth of the Tamsui River and the scenery of the old street, to create his artworks. His paintings of Tamsui, whether showing mist, flowing water, wind movement, or the light and shadows of the four seasons, delicately portray the graceful, sentimental charm and poetic beauty of the Tamsui River like that of a young maiden.