Okinawa is synonymous with the sea and a laid-back lifestyle. There’s a group of people from elsewhere who fell in love with Okinawa and never wanted to leave. Follow in their footsteps, listen to their touching stories, and find your own pace of life in Okinawa. Enjoy delicious meals made with local island vegetables, stay in dreamy accommodations. With a leisurely stroll, accompanied by the sea breeze and hibiscus flowers, Okinawa is simply addictive.
So what’s Roberto’s next excuse for splurging? Please turn to the next page? Please turn to the next page.
Starting from Naha City and following National Route 58 to Urasoe City, take a small alley next to a gas station and you’ll soon discover a hidden serene little community. At the entrance, you’ll see a large sign that reads “港川ステイツサイドタウン” (Minatogawa StateSide Town). Originally a residential area for American military families, commonly known as the foreigners’ housing area, after they moved out, the area retained its rows of white bungalows and small gardens. The slightly faded white walls, faint cracks from years gone by, old wooden lattice windows... along the road, you’ll find charming American-style houses. The area is planted with red and orange hibiscus flowers, green banana trees, and bougainvillea. In one corner, a purple hibiscus frames a small path, behind which lies a coconut tree, swaying gently in the sea breeze.
The setting sun quietly walks across the colorful doors, casting beautiful geometric patterns between light and shadow that make you want to capture the moment with your camera. Accompanied by the sound of school bells, elementary school students head home with their backpacks, while the noise of children playing soccer echoes from the open space behind the houses—this is a peaceful and idyllic scene of everyday life in Okinawa, only with a backdrop of rows of American-style white bungalows.
Accompanied by the sound of school bells, elementary school students head home with their backpacks, while the noise of children playing soccer echoes from the open space behind the houses. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe旅人志)
Beyond Roberto’s unique insights, explore more world-class sights through the eyes of fellow travelers.
Exclusive Okinawan scenery
After many unique shops moved in, the community has breathed new life into the white bungalows. Each one is painted in its own vibrant color—sky-blue roofs, orange-red and lemon-yellow window frames, pink and apple-green doors. Every step you take, turning down a street, brings a new surprise. As a result, the foreigners’ residential area has become a mysterious little world perfect for an afternoon stroll. The area is mainly named and divided by color and U.S. states, staying true to the “foreigner spirit.” There are 62 small houses divided into 10 blocks: Georgia, Texas, Indiana, Florida, Nevada, Virginia, Kansas, Michigan, Arizona, and Oregon. If you’re familiar with the U.S., you’ll feel right at home. Since the area isn’t large, you can wander down each alley. Each block has a sign at the entrance, so you won’t get lost. And the most exciting part? It hides plenty of cafés and tea houses, dessert and bakery shops, second-hand clothing stores, and American and Japanese general stores. As you stroll, besides shopping and sipping tea, you can also savor the unique blend of Western, Japanese, and Ryukyu cultures that create a truly one-of-a-kind Okinawan scenery. Whether you want to spend the whole afternoon at an outdoor café, hunt for treasures in little shops, or just wander aimlessly, this place will surely satisfy any traveler’s desire to relax and experience Okinawa’s slow life.
Each white house still retains its old-fashioned house number—small square plaques with numbers, paired with an old European-style lantern, very nostalgic. You might stumble upon a cute American-style mailbox painted with Mickey and Minnie, or a coffee bean specialty shop where the aroma of coffee wafts through the air, with a jacket featuring a toucan—the symbol of Central and South America—hanging in the window. An orange door has a cool motorcycle parked in front, both decorative and fitting. A small wall decorated with diving gear and seashells declares the owner’s love for the sea, and on the ground stands Okinawa’s most common shisa lion with an amusingly quirky expression. Within this multicultural interplay, a series of rare, exclusive Okinawan scenes unfold. Whether you want to sit at an outdoor café for the whole afternoon, explore little shops for treasures, or simply wander freely, this place will definitely fulfill any traveler’s wish to unwind and experience Okinawa’s leisurely pace.
The ideal summer afternoon
For the final stop, we decided to end our walking map perfectly at the dessert shop [oHacorte], famous for its fruit tarts. Though the shop is located at the end of a small alley, the constant stream of visitors and the excited expressions of young girls show just how popular it is. Inside, a natural wood color scheme creates a warm and gentle Japanese-style general store vibe. In addition to handmade desserts, cookies, and jams, the shop also sells all kinds of goods, stationery, and small items. The beautiful courtyard and blue door feel like visiting a lovely home. In the middle of the lush garden stands a small white wooden house, which is also the shop’s signature feature—even guys can’t help but exclaim, “So cute!”
Sitting in the little house, enjoying the cool breeze, eating a tangy and rich fruit tart, and experiencing true Japanese slow living—this is the ideal summer afternoon.
Men can have a great time too at the second-hand clothing store and with these colorful, delicious fruit tarts. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe旅人志)
From traveler to local—stories of falling in love with Okinawa
Kazuichi Kawamoto: Okinawa is a wonderful place with a slow pace of life.
On the day of our visit, the sky was cloudless and the sun was scorching. Early in the morning, Pain de Kaito Bakery was bustling with activity—turns out a local TV station had come to interview, and the crowd was so big it was packed to the brim. The owner was bustling back and forth behind the counter, checking ingredients, sprinkling flour, kneading dough, putting it in the oven, all while being interviewed and still chatting casually with regular customers. His hearty laughter was truly memorable. Kazuichi Kawamoto, originally from Yokohama, has lived in Okinawa for five years. His dark skin and cheerful smile have long been tinted with Okinawa hues, making him the epitome of a beach boy from Okinawa. When asked what he loves most about Okinawa, he paused and said, “Probably the sea!” He loves the sea so much that he even named his child “Umi” (meaning “sea”). The nearby blue ocean, taking up two-thirds of the view, plus the spring-like climate all year round, means that Mr. Kawamoto spends his holidays at the beach with his family, surfing. It’s a kind of joy and pure happiness he never experienced in Tokyo.
“Okinawa is a wonderful place with a slow pace of life.” Moving to Okinawa was a major turning point in Kazuichi Kawamoto’s life. He left behind the family and friends of his hometown, and opened his very first bakery. Even though it was still within Japan, crossing the sea felt like arriving in a distant foreign land. The hardships of starting from scratch are still vivid in his memory. Mr. Kawamoto said, “At first, I faced a lot of difficulties. I didn’t know anyone, had no resources, it was tough. But I never thought of giving up. I didn’t even consider opening in Naha because it’s too crowded. My ideal life in Okinawa is one that’s relaxed and slow-paced.” Following his vision for the bakery, he slowly moved toward the northern part of Okinawa, surrounded by nature, mountains, and sea. In the end, he opened this dream bakery on a main street not far from Nago Bay.
A Tokyo native who loves Okinawa—Kazuichi Kawamoto has found his slow-paced world in Okinawa. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe旅人志)
In conversation, you can feel the passion of a driven young man and his deep enthusiasm for his work, but in reality, Kazuichi Kawamoto has also experienced times when he felt lost in life.
Surrounded by the aroma of bread, long, elegant French baguettes gradually take shape before your eyes, accompanied by the sound of metal tools rubbing against the iron plate—and the story continues.
Kazuichi Kawamoto’s encounter with Okinawa was2001during his honeymoon year. He fell in love with this little island at first sight and once told his wife, “One day, I want to live in a place like this.”∼That planted the seed of becoming an Okinawan. Now, he has truly put down roots and fulfilled his dream. At the same time, in search of ingredients, he got to know many local farmers, and now fresh produce is delivered daily from nearby fields. He also helps develop local small-farm products. Last year, he even opened a café with a friend inside the Okinawa Institute of Science and Technology Graduate University (OIST), fulfilling another dream after the bakery. Dream by dream, step by step—Mr. Kawamoto’s satisfied smile says it all. Okinawa is like a paradise for dreamers. Asked if he’d ever want to go back to Tokyo, Mr. Kawamoto shakes his head and laughs, “I haven’t been back in three years. I love summer—the winters in Tokyo are just too cold.”
Above: A violet taro crisp cream puff, resembling violets. Below: The wide variety of breads at Pain de Kaito. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe旅人志)