Penang’s old town is reborn,

 

Old colonial buildings exude a strong Chinese atmosphere, with floral wall decorations showcasing the bright charm of the tropics. Chinese dining tables hold Western cutlery, and the first dish served is often nutmeg water served in a mug. The decor and furnishings are hybrid in style, and the fusion of Southeast Asian spices with Chinese dishes—like stir-fried squid and Kapitan Chicken—may initially seem like ordinary Southeast Asian fare upon first glance. But after the first bite, you’ll realize that the Peranakan flavor described by locals is unexpectedly comforting and delicious.

Stir-fried squid, cooked with plenty of vegetables, dried shrimp, and shredded squid, lacks the fishy taste of seafood and instead boasts the freshness of vegetables. It’s delicious on its own, but even better when wrapped in lettuce leaves with shrimp paste chili sauce. It’s a big hit among our group, with everyone praising its sweet and savory taste that evokes a sense of home. I remember during Qingming Festival back home, our spring rolls would always be filled with similar stir-fried vegetables. With the same base, Penang’s version of stir-fried squid includes more spices, offering a familiar yet exotic flavor that’s truly surprising. Another famous Peranakan dish, “Kapitan Chicken,” has a rather curious name. The term “Kapitan” originally referred to the English word “captain,” and during Portuguese colonization, it was a leadership title responsible for handling local affairs. Naming a dish after this title likely stems from a Kapitan who loved this dish—or perhaps a mother who hoped her son would grow up to be a leader. Kapitan Chicken tastes somewhat like curry chicken, but upon closer tasting, the blend of spices is distinct. In addition to the usual coconut milk curry method, it also incorporates shrimp paste, ginkgo nuts, and galangal, resulting in a sweet, sour, and spicy flavor with a rich coconut aroma. The texture is smooth and pairs perfectly with rice. Even after finishing a plate of plain rice, you won’t be satisfied—so you’ll go back for another serving of shrimp fried with asam gelugur. The shrimp is coated in thick asam gelugur sauce, making it look almost black, but the enticing aroma gives it away. Known as asam in tropical fruits, this fruit is also called “assam” in other Southeast Asian countries and resembles long, slender longans. It has a sour-sweet taste. When this fruit is made into a sauce and added to dishes, it becomes the signature sour element in Peranakan cuisine.