The reason why dumplings became a national dish in Japan: Nostalgia for Manchurian flavors in Japan

▲Japanese-style dumplings commonly seen at ramen shops in Japan. (Photo by Huang Shiyuan)

ByHu Chuan’an

In the previous episode 〈How “Dumplings,” the Perfect Companion to Ramen, Came to Japan and Became a Popular National Dish?〉, we mentioned that before the Meiji Restoration, Japanese people did not eat four-legged animals, so the spread of boiled dumplings was quite limited. After the Meiji Restoration, some cookbooks mentioned dumplings, and they were aware of boiled, steamed, and pan-fried dumplings, but mainly regarded them as snacks rather than staples, and there were almost no restaurants selling dumplings.

So why did Japanese dumplings become the national dish they are today? Even a regional city like Utsunomiya has over a hundred dumpling shops. This is related to the establishment of Manchukuo and Japan’s invasion of China.

Postwar Dumplings: The Flavor of Manchuria

I previously mentioned the story of ramen in 《The Traditional Flavors of Japanese Cuisine》 where I said that at the end of World War II, Japan was in ruins, food supply was scarce, and many soldiers returning from overseas faced even more severe famine than during the war. They had no kitchens, some didn’t even have homes, and needed food that could quickly satisfy their hunger. At such a time, ramen became extremely popular.

In addition to ramen, dumplings also became widely popular during this period. According to historical records, in 1954 (Showa 29), there were only 40 dumpling shops in Tokyo, but 20 new ones opened every month. Magazines and newspapers at the time also noticed this trend, attributing the spread of dumpling shops to the large number of people returning from China after the war. Dumplings were a food they had encountered in China, evoking a sense of nostalgia, and advertisements even used phrases like “searching for the taste of Manchuria.”

In the early postwar period, dumplings became more popular faster than ramen. Many Japanese soldiers and accompanying personnel, unable to sustain their livelihoods after the war, began looking to start businesses, and dumplings required relatively little equipment, making them easy to get into.These Japanese who had eaten dumplings in China returned to Japan and opened dumpling shops, initially in big cities, then spreading across the country. Within two or three years, dumpling shops were established nationwide.

Japan’s well-known food magazine 《dancyu》 has done numerous special features on dumplings. The so-called long-established dumpling shops actually only started after the war. Among the 185 shops featured in the magazine, almost all began operations after the war. We can also see the connection to Manchuria from some shop names, such as 〈Manchuria Village〉 in Tokyo and 〈Manchuria House〉 in Kurume.

But why did Japanese people—who didn’t usually eat minced meat, the filling of dumplings—start eating it? What was the turning point?


▲Traditional preparation of Hiroshima-style dumplings, arranged in a circle symbolizing completeness, topped with bean sprouts to help cut through the richness. (Photo by supplied material)

Starting to Eat Pork Minced Meat

Before the Meiji Restoration, Japanese people generally did not eat four-legged animals. Later, through the promotion by the military and transformation of their own dietary culture—such as the creation of tonkatsu (pork cutlet)—the habit of not eating pork gradually became accepted.

However, before World War II, even Japanese people who dared to eat pork were somewhat reluctant to consume offal or pork minced meat. The promotion of offal was mainly driven by Koreans staying in Japan, which later evolved into what is now known as “Japanese-style yakiniku (grilled meat),” while pork minced meat was brought back by Japanese who had stayed in Manchuria, reintroducing their former eating habits.

In addition, after the war, Japanese people began paying attention to pork minced meat also because of the famine. Food shortages during the war became even more severe afterward. Originally, a large portion of the Japanese Empire’s food supply relied on its colonies, Korea and Taiwan, and most Japanese men had joined the military, abandoning farming. After World War II ended, millions of soldiers returned from China, Taiwan, Korea, and other places, making food supply a major issue.

In the years following the return of 6 million Japanese to their hometowns, rice crops failed. Japanese people, who previously did not eat pork minced meat, had no choice but to eat whatever was available, and pork minced meat became one of the important sources of protein for postwar Japanese.

Most of the dumpling shops opened in Japan after the war were run by Japanese themselves, with very few opened by Chinese. It wasn’t until after Japan and China established diplomatic relations that many Chinese orphans who had stayed in Japan returned to their hometowns to visit relatives and learned that people back home ate dumplings. Upon returning to Japan, they also opened dumpling shops. 〈Kinchun〉 and 〈Welcome〉, both opened in Kamata, Tokyo, were dumpling restaurants established by Chinese expatriates who had stayed in Japan.

Why didn’t Chinese people in Japan open dumpling shops? Mainly because their dietary culture differed from that of the Japanese, and this brings us to how dumplings became guotie (pan-fried dumplings).


▲There are specialized dumpling shops in many places across Japan. (Photo by supplied material)

From Dumplings to Guotie

The “dumplings” sold across Japan today are what Chinese would call guotie or pan-fried dumplings. But before World War II, Japanese people knew the difference between boiled dumplings and pan-fried dumplings. The March 1932 issue of the magazine 《Monthly Shokudoraku》 introduced the pronunciation of dumplings as “gyōza,” and later, with the establishment of Manchukuo, there were also introductions of “guotie (guōtiē),” but the term “pan-fried dumplings” hadn’t appeared yet. Therefore, when Japanese people later tried to find the origin of pan-fried dumplings, they naturally couldn’t find an answer in Chinese history, so we will instead place the origin of pan-fried dumplings in Japan.

Looking at essays written by people during World War II, actor Koga Ryūbo wrote in 《Roppa’s Miserable Food Diaries》 about the first dumpling shops that opened after the war, mentioning that many new dumpling shops in Tokyo’s Shibuya were opened by people associated with those who returned from Manchuria. At that time, these dumpling shops sold both boiled and pan-fried dumplings, but guotie were served with vegetables, rice, and noodles, making for a great combination.

From such records, we can see the differences in dietary culture. In northern China, boiled dumplings can be a staple, with a meal of just one or two dozen being sufficient. But this isn’t the case in Japan.In a rice-centered Japan, because pan-fried dumplings are fragrant after being fried, they pair well with rice and vegetables, becoming a type of side dish. Later, Japanese people also began serving dumplings (pan-fried) with chili oil to stimulate the appetite when eating rice, while dumplings at ramen shops were not a staple but rather emerged as a side dish to ramen.Japanese people have always regarded dumplings as a side dish, which is also why the “dumpling set meal” later emerged, paired with a staple of rice and miso soup, and using chili oil to whet the appetite.

After World War II, not only were many dumpling shops opened across the country, but NHK’s 〈Today’s Cooking〉 also taught housewives how to make dumplings by hand on the program. 〈Today’s Cooking〉 was broadcast when Japanese people were gradually becoming more affluent and televisions were mass-produced, and it had a profound impact on food culture, especially home-cooked meals.

In addition, the spread of dumplings was also related to the introduction of freezing equipment. By the 1960s, freezing and storage facilities had gradually matured, and in 1961, the refrigerator ownership rate in Japan reached 50%, climbing to 100% just five years later. Large food companies began to produce frozen dumplings, making them convenient to prepare at home and further popularizing them.


▲Five Urakawa-style dumpling platters. (Photo / Provided materials)

The Localization of Dumplings

After dumplings became a national dish in Japan, they also began to develop regional characteristics, with people in various areas adding their own local flavors.Both Utsunomiya in Tochigi and Hamamatsu in Shizuoka have large populations of veterans who returned from Manchuria, and both cities are well known for their dumplings in Japan. However, their flavors are quite different. While Utsunomiya has over a hundred dumpling shops, most offer similar tastes—refreshing and packed with vegetables, resulting in crispy exteriors with juicy interiors that align more with Japan’s light culinary preferences.

Hamamatsu’s dumplings, on the other hand, are made using local cabbage. The post-war popularity of Hamamatsu dumplings is also tied to factories. Originally not accustomed to eating out, Hamamatsu residents started buying dumplings from roadside stalls run by veterans who had returned from Manchuria. After work, laborers would smell the savory, crispy dumplings and bring them home.

In Yahata City in northern Kyushu, once home to a major steel plant, interactions with China had been more frequent than in other regions since the late Meiji period due to iron ore imports from China. Coupled with a sizable Chinese immigrant population in northern Kyushu, dumplings became popular here earlier. Steelworkers needed cheap yet filling meals, so the dumplings featured minimal meat with crisp, pan-fried wrappers—delivering quick satiety. This pattern of dumpling dissemination resembles how ramen spread in Japan.

Yahata also has numerous dumpling and ramen shops, reflecting the everyday appeal of both foods. The unique trait of Yahata dumplings is the use of yuzu kosho, a seasoning made with yuzu (citron) peel, green chili peppers, and salt—a regional Kyushu specialty that adds a taste of home for locals.

Compared to the small and light dumplings of Utsunomiya, those from Tsu City in Mie Prefecture are famous for their size—each one wrapped in a 15-centimeter diameter wrapper, roughly the size of a palm, sold individually and deep-fried. One dumpling is enough to make a filling meal.

Beyond these locations, cities like Fukushima, Kobe, Kawasaki, and Miyashiro also have their own distinctive dumplings. From an imported food, the Japanese adapted and localized it, allowing it to take root in various forms across the country. In recent years, Japanese dumplings have also begun expanding overseas with their own restaurants.


▲Renowned Japanese dumpling chain "Gyoza no Ohsho" plans to enter Taiwan. (Photo / Huang Shiyuan)

Dumplings Going Global

The well-known dumpling chain "Gyoza no Ohsho" boasts the largest number of dumpling outlets in Japan, with nearly 700 stores at its peak. Originating in Kyoto in 1967, the chain expanded to China in 2005, opening several locations in Dalian with the slogan: “Gyoza no Ohsho triumphantly returns to the homeland of dumplings.” However, the venture was far from triumphant—their performance was poor, leading to eventual closures.

The main reason for the failure of "Gyoza no Ohsho" in China was the difference in dietary habits. They introduced a “ramen and dumplings set meal,” but locals in Dalian were unaccustomed to such dumplings. Moreover, Chinese dining culture typically involves ordering shared dishes for family and friends to enjoy together. "Gyoza no Ohsho" failed to recognize these cultural differences, which led to its setback in the Chinese market.

So how have Japanese-style dumplings gained global popularity outside of China?

Primarily due to the spread of ramen. Since the 21st century, ramen has become one of the key symbols of Japanese cuisine, and as Japanese people often pair ramen with dumplings, this habit traveled abroad and entered global markets. Establishments like Daikokuya in Los Angeles or Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York’s East Village represent youthful and trendy food scenes. Beyond these cities, nearly every major North American urban center now hosts ramen restaurants.


▲Osaka Ohsho entered Taiwan in 2016. (Photo / Provided by Shin Kong Mitsukoshi)

Not only in North America, but European markets have also warmly embraced Japanese ramen shops. From France, Germany, the UK, and Spain to Italy, the number of ramen establishments continues to grow. As ramen shops expand worldwide, Japanese dumplings are also becoming known to Westerners. In Paris, there’s even a “Gyoza Bar,” offering Japanese-style dumplings served with rice and small Japanese side dishes. Compared to its struggles in the Chinese market, French diners seem more receptive to Japanese dumplings.

Beyond France, “Gyoza Bar” has also opened locations around the world—in London, Vancouver, Singapore, and more. While retaining the essence of traditional Japanese dumplings, the brand adjusts its offerings to suit local dietary cultures. Its primary market targets affordable meals, appealing to youths, students, and office workers looking for a casual, budget-friendly bite during afternoons or evenings. Through this strategy, the Japanese dumpling culture is gradually making its way into major global cities.

Dumplings traveled from China to Japan, bearing the imprints of the Second Sino-Japanese War and Manchukuo, yet took root in Japan as a national dish and local specialty. From there, they journeyed across the oceans to the rest of the world. Following the trail of dumplings, we witness the richness and inclusiveness of culture and history.

The above article is republished with permission from the "Story" websiteWhy Dumplings Became a Japanese National Dish: Nostalgia for the Taste of Manchuria in Japan”