A Secret Kyoto Morning: Brunch on a Summer River Terrace

Text by TRAVELER Luxe / Luxe Traveler, Interview & Report by Liao Hongxin

 

“Young lady, what’s this place?” A man with a thick Kyoto accent peeked curiously into the shop. “Why not just go in and see for yourself!” I answered. And just like that, we ended up attracting two more groups of customers by sheer chance. If you were standing at the entrance of Kawa Café かわカフェ, wouldn’t you be curious too? Passing through a narrow stone path, you’ll find yourself greeted by a summer greenery at the end. Imagine sitting in a space with wide floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoying my personal riverside brunch, accompanied by the enchanting morning light of the Kamo River.

Opened in early April 2012, Kawa Café is the Kamo River annex of the renowned French restaurant à peu près (フランス料理店ア．プ．プレ) located in Karasuma-Gojo, Kyoto. Housed in a traditional machiya townhouse, the restaurant serves refined French-inspired light kaiseki cuisine that blends three-Michelin-star techniques with Kyoto vegetables (kyo-yasai). à peu près quickly gained popularity after opening, even becoming a favorite spot for those on a “petit luxe day trip” (プチ贅沢日帰り) in Japan. However, the restaurant recently adjusted its business model slightly, discontinuing its lunch service that offered authentic French cuisine at affordable prices, focusing instead on the evening menu — much to the disappointment of many regulars.

 

But Chef Mizuho Takemura remained committed to her original vision: making French cuisine more accessible to everyone. Thus, the riverside café Kawa Café かわカフェ was born — a casual French bistro experience paired with the scenic charm of the Kamo River.

Sharing good food and beautiful views is the sole philosophy of Kawa Café — which is why it opened an affordable coffee shop right in the heart of the competitive kaiseki riverside scene. Known as “kawadono” or river terraces, these are seasonal open-air platforms set up along Kyoto’s Kamo River, as well as in places like Kifune and Takao, during the summer months from June to September. Restaurants build elevated decks over or by the river, allowing diners to enjoy meals amidst the cool shade of summer greenery or with the refreshing evening breeze — all while savoring seasonal dishes crafted from fresh summer ingredients. Experiencing Kyoto’s elegant scenery and indulging in limited-time seasonal cuisine is something locals look forward to all year. That’s why, despite prices often exceeding ten thousand yen, reservations are hard to come by — money doesn’t always guarantee a seat.

 

So from the moment I laid eyes on Kawa Café’s spacious terrace, it stirred my imagination about a riverside brunch. Built from a traditional Kyoto townhouse, Kawa Café preserved the structure but removed the wall facing the sun. Push open the grand floor-to-ceiling windows, and you step out onto the summer terrace. When summer heat becomes unbearable, it’s a delight to sit comfortably in the air-conditioned space, watching people across the river — strolling, cycling — moving through the lush green like a living scroll. You start looking forward to early autumn, when the cool through-draft greets you as you open the windows, and the vibrant green fades into golden hues, offering a completely different kind of charm.

 

The interior features a simple American country style. White walls are adorned with vintage photos and old advertisements, evoking a sense of wonder about the wider world during the early days of global discovery. Furniture, flooring, ceilings, and beams blend the old with the new, American home aesthetics with Japanese machiya charm, perfectly extending the slow, serene vibe of the ancient capital.

There’s nothing better than enjoying brunch by the river. The French toast brunch (Pain perdu) includes slices of French bread soaked in egg and milk, pan-fried to golden crispness, served with strawberry jam. Bitter arugula is tossed with tangy Italian vinaigrette, paired with smooth herb-infused scrambled eggs and crispy bacon — refreshing yet satisfying. Add a coffee au lait, and your riverside meal takes on an upscale vibe. It’s simple, yet still embodies the understated elegance and delicious balance that à peu près is known for. For lunch, try the Les Tartines, Ratatouille et mozzarella — a pizza-style bread topped with Provençal ratatouille made from summer vegetables like tomatoes, eggplants, red and yellow bell peppers, zucchini, herbs, and bacon, plus a layer of melted mozzarella cheese. Slice into the crusty bread, and you’ll find a rich flow of melted cheese paired with the light, textured goodness of the ratatouille, along with the bread that has absorbed all the vegetable juices. Carbs are truly the best comfort food for any journey.

 

Other lunch options include sandwiches, savory pies, and daily specials. By 12 noon, the place is packed. At the next table, a group of Japanese moms and their kids are having a lively meal — the kids are digging in with gusto, leaving behind a delightful mess. Dinner offers French countryside-style dishes, where you can casually order a few items to pair with wine or enjoy a full-course French meal.

 

All day long, you’re accompanied by the bright sunlight of the Kamo River, the lush greens of midsummer, and your very own riverside retreat for quiet contemplation — tucked away in a machiya café called Kawa Café, just a five-minute walk between Kyoto’s bustling Gion and Kawaramachi districts.

 

 

● Recommended Reading:

Day Trips Beyond Tokyo: Exploring the Suburbs

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