Ye Yilan recommends time-honored eateries beloved by Tainan locals

There’s a saying: “Every Tainan local has their own food map.” We asked every Tainan local we met, and there’s solid evidence to back this up. In Ye Yilan’s observation, Tainan locals can be quite stubborn and proud about the flavors they’ve come to trust. Beyond what Shu Guozhi mentioned—that Tainan people only eat at the old brands they approve of—the quality and portion sizes of Tainan street food have allowed locals to develop their own standards. Acceptance of these old shops also involves emotional and proximity factors. Ye Yilan laughs that living in the Dongmen area, unless strongly motivated, her food explorations used to revolve around her neighborhood. Only after starting related work did she say, “Out of curiosity, my food map became much wider.” The local diners we met at A Tang Salty Porridge are the same.

 

Tainan breakfasts are known for their variety and generous portions. Ye Yilan says this may be related to the former lifestyle—people needed protein and nutrients to get through a day’s labor, hence meals nearly as substantial as regular lunches. Later on, it’s tied to Tainan’s slower pace of life. People have time to enjoy breakfast leisurely. Ye Yilan says, “At nine or ten in the morning, I wonder where all the customers come from?” Aside from quality, portion size matters too—even café breakfasts come with a set amount, usually including salad, fruit, bacon/ham omelet (or sandwich), and a drink, all for just over a hundred Taiwan dollars.

 

Japanese food critic Seiichiro Ikeda sometimes had reservations when writing, choosing to omit the names of beloved spots to prevent overcrowding from ruining the dining experience. When it comes to recommending Tainan snacks, Ye Yilan also feels hesitant—some family-favorite street stalls become so crowded after being featured that her family grumbles. She half-jokes, “My family isn’t happy about it.” But we still asked Ye Yilan to share a few breakfast spots favored by Tainan locals.

Ye Yilan responded: “Salty porridge is a must; I recommend A Tang Salty Porridge.” Among several options, Ye Yilan chose A Tang for more than just its mullet congee—it’s equally good with sardine congee. The sardines are salted, pan-fried, then simmered with rice, keeping the flesh firm and not falling apart, while the grains are plump. The umami and rich fatty texture are why Ye Yilan recommends it. “Taste compatibility” also plays a part. She adds, “Tainan’s seafood is caught early in the morning and eaten by noon—that’s the rule.” It makes sense that A Tang Salty Porridge only serves breakfast.

 

Nearby A Cun Beef Soup earns Ye Yilan’s full praise: “I’m truly convinced.” The shop’s operating hours reveal its philosophy on ingredients: 6 PM–12 AM and 4 AM–12 PM. Cattle are slaughtered once each evening and once at dawn, perfectly timed with ingredient availability. Ye Yilan says, “That’s Tainan being particular.” At A Cun, freshly butchered beef slices are arranged neatly in bowls, then topped with broth made from beef bones, daikon, and onions. The soup is served with a ginger-infused soy paste. Dipping the tender beef in it melts in the mouth, and the ginger adds depth. The sweetened soy paste is very sugary—whether to use it is up to personal taste.

 

Yuanhuan Ding Vegetable Zongzi was Ye Yilan’s Sunday breakfast staple as a child. Tainan snacks often have a long history. Yuanhuan Ding, established in the 1950s, got its name from its original location at Dongmen Roundabout. Made with bamboo leaves, peanuts, and sticky rice, these zongzi are simple yet aromatic—the moment you unwrap them, a fragrant simplicity reveals the true taste of the ingredients.

At Deep Blue Café, famed for its layer cake, you’ll find Ye Yilan’s recommended Western breakfast. Deep Blue offers three breakfast options. The finger sandwich reflects Tainan’s attention to detail—it’s wrapped in egg skin for added flair. Ye Yilan also mentions, “Breakfast always includes salad and fruit for nutrition; tea is always served in a teapot—it’s sincere and thoughtful.” Why wrap sandwiches in egg skin? It turns out the idea came from owner Lin Zhaoyin preparing tea party food for a friend—convenient for serving. After positive feedback, the practice stuck for Deep Blue’s breakfast menu.

As a once-bustling marketplace, West Market is home to several renowned snacks. Before visiting Minju Xie Zhai, owner Xie Wenkan took us on a quick tour around West Market. Near the Guohua Street exit, we first spotted A Rui Yi Mian. Xie Wenkan greeted the chef and told us he’s been eating here since childhood, and the current fourth-generation owner, Ye Wenting, is actually his junior schoolmate.

 

Both yi mian noodles and wontons are highlights at A Rui, but the noodles are the real gem—chewy with a wonderful wheat aroma. Arrive too early and you might not even see the chef—he could still be making noodles at home. Apparently, noodles used to be sold wholesale, but now, due to limited supply, they’re only available at the shop. Many guests swear by the dry stir-fried noodles, while the pork loin broth is light yet flavorful. Even in hot weather, if you’re not in a rush, take your time with a bowl of soup noodles, and glance at the colorful neighboring gift shop—it’s quite the experience.