Autumn in Hokkaido’s Harvest Season: Niseko’s Seasonal Delicacies

Text by Moleskine Editorial Department Lü Wanlin | Special Thanks to Hokkaido Shiribeshi General Promotion Bureau

 

Niseko is located in the southern part of Hokkaido’s Shiribeshi region, where the massive Mount Yotei in the fields is a local spiritual symbol. Resembling Mount Fuji in shape, it is also known as Ezo Fuji (Ezo being an ancient name for Hokkaido), and is regarded as a sacred mountain that nurtures this land; when the snow on the mountain melts and seeps into the ground, it takes decades or even centuries to emerge as spring water at the mountain’s base, irrigating the earth. After thousands of such cycles, the northern land gradually becomes fertile, sustaining continuous life. On this day, we flew to the north, harvesting fresh fruits and vegetables in the embrace of Mother Earth and discovering seasonal delicacies exclusive to autumn.

By October, Hokkaido is painted in autumn hues, with golden landscapes streaming past the car window—an extravagantly beautiful sight. The cold air carried by the Hokkaido wind brushes against your skin, signaling the arrival of a season that whets the appetite. Fresh potatoes and fruit picked and eaten on the spot—autumn’s harvest season is filled with the rewards of a year’s hard work. Before the icy winter sets in, we immerse ourselves in the crimson maple foliage and head to Niseko to experience the northern harvest season.

 

In the autumn of the north, aside from the readily available beauty of red leaves, agricultural harvests naturally bring to mind the abundant, high-quality potatoes. The large temperature differences between morning and night in Niseko are reflected in the vegetables grown in the land, especially the richly aromatic potatoes, which are perfect for various dishes due to their high sugar content. HUCKLEBERRY FARM at the foot of Mount Yotei irrigates its fields with spring water from the mountain, growing plump potatoes; unlike the commonly known Jersey Royal potatoes, what we dug up in the fields that day was an improved variety called “Kitakari (キタアカリ).” Grabbing a hoe and turning over the leafless soil, the yellowish potatoes emerged from the ground. Carefully picking them up and letting them dry in the shade for half a day, they can then be taken to the kitchen to become various delicious dishes. Whether steamed or cut into strips and fried, you can taste the soft, sweet qualities of Kitakari. It’s particularly recommended to add some butter to a steamed potato—the delicate, rich simplicity is an unforgettable flavor.

Aside from potatoes, visiting Niseko also means not missing the dairy farm where you can enjoy ice cream while admiring the view of Mount Yotei from the lawn. The land nourishes the grass, the grass feeds the cows, the cows produce excellent milk, which is made into the delicious ice cream on our tongues. The dairy farm’s milk ice cream is rich yet not greasy, and the autumn-limited pumpkin flavor is sweet and rich on the palate.

After satisfying our taste buds, we headed to Goshiki Onsen, known as a hidden hot spring, to enjoy the warmth of the mineral waters in the crisp air of late autumn.

 

 

Goshiki Onsen is located at the trailhead of Mount Niseko-Annupuri. The hot spring water here emerges clear and colorless but gradually turns milky white over time. Soaking in the open-air hot spring pool while gazing at the distant mountain scenery is especially breathtaking during the deep autumn foliage season. Additionally, behind the Goshiki Onsen inn is a pool of hot spring source water and a free foot bath. The large pool is rich in minerals, helping to recover from fatigue, and the clay at the bottom has skin-beautifying effects. Soaking your feet in the warm foot bath during the cool season becomes a small but delightful highlight of the trip.