Tohoku is considered a paradise of hot springs by the Japanese. Each hot spring town has a unique development history and scale, showcasing diverse characteristics that have created a world-renowned hot spring culture. Tohoku is home to many hidden hot springs, most of which have retained their original appearance due to inconvenient transportation, giving them a rustic charm and an open atmosphere that are major draws. Whether soaking in the hot springs while admiring the autumn foliage or enjoying a warm bath in the snowy winter, it’s an unparalleled experience.
Aomori Prefecture’s “Supponyu”
Located within Towada-Hachimantai National Park, Supponyu is nestled in the mountains of Hakkoda at an altitude of 900 meters. Relatively unknown, it has preserved its original appearance since its opening 320 years ago, which is evident from its wooden exterior. Thanks to its high elevation and fresh air, the hot spring is even more therapeutic, attracting many visitors. Even in the cold winter, its reasonably priced hot spring lodging rooms are in high demand.
The most appealing feature of Supponyu is its all-wooden large bathhouse, the “Senrin’yoku” (Thousand-Person Bath), which spans 80 tsubo (approximately 264 square meters)—a rare size in Japan that can accommodate hundreds of people. It includes five baths: the Hot Bath, Cold Bath, 4:6 Bath, and others. As a mixed-gender bath, each tub is divided into male and female sections. For women who prefer not to bathe together, there’s a dedicated women-only time, or you can purchase the inn’s specially made hot spring robe to enjoy a unique mixed-bathing experience.
Throughout Supponyu, traces of nostalgia can be found everywhere. The self-catering section’s shop sells many freshly made hot meals and fruits to meet the daily needs of hot spring guests. Located near a ski resort, it also employs professional ski instructors to run a ski school, making it a great destination for a ski-and-hot-spring trip in winter. The seventh-generation-run Supponyu has also opened a log cabin resort nearby called “Hakkoda Hotel,” built with North American logs. A chef trained in France prepares exquisite dishes for guests.
[Info]
Address: Aomori Prefecture, Aomori City, Ohchara, Minami-Ohchara, Yamagata National Forest, Supponyu
Phone: +81-17-738-6400
Spring Quality: Acidic Sulfur Spring (contains gypsum and acidic hydrogen sulfide)
With a history of 320 years, Supponyu is famous for its “Thousand-Person Bath.” (Image provided by the Moleskine Editorial Department)
Aomori Prefecture’s “Seiyu Onsen”
Seiyu Onsen is tucked between valleys, with no human presence within a 6.5-kilometer radius, making it feel like a secluded paradise. Until 75 years ago, when development began, it was an untouched wilderness. Established in 1930 (Showa 5), Seiyu Onsen still relies entirely on self-generated power, with no electricity lines connected. At night, only oil lamps provide light. Despite the lack of modern amenities like TVs or radios, the nostalgic ambiance created by the oil lamps and the quiet, natural environment have made Seiyu Onsen a well-known hidden inn in Japan.
In addition to the 24 rooms in the main building, Seiyu Onsen also offers standalone rooms, providing families with more members an independent and private space. To reach the open-air bath or bathhouse, you must cross a suspension bridge over a stream. The dim glow of oil lamps enhances the atmosphere of the rock-built open-air bath. The “Taki’umi no Yu” (Waterfall View Bath), completed in the fall of 2005, is filled with the rich aroma of wood. Soaking in the open-air bath also allows you to enjoy the view of the waterfall.
Dining at Seiyu Onsen offers another unique flavor. Gather around an irori (sunken hearth) to enjoy mountain vegetables picked nearby and river-caught iwana (char). The setting elevates the simple and rustic flavors. Although the atmospheric oil lamps are quite enticing, for safety reasons, the owner reminds guests not to touch them and to make sure to extinguish the flames before going to bed.
[Info]
Address: Aomori Prefecture, Oirase, Seiyuzawa, 7
Phone: +81-1-7254-8588
Spring Quality: Simple Carbonate Spring
Soaking in the open-air bath also allows you to enjoy the view of the waterfall. (Image provided by the Moleskine Editorial Department)
Aomori Prefecture’s “Furofushi Onsen”
The first impression of Furofushi Onsen is the massive modern windmill. Due to the strong winds along the Sea of Japan, windmills for generating wind power are common along the coast. Furofushi Onsen is located on the Sea of Japan coast in western Aomori Prefecture, near Shirakami-Sanchi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Upon entering the inn, the lobby clearly displays today’s sunset time because visitors come here specifically to enjoy the coastal open-air bath during the sunset. All hot spring enthusiasts arrive before the sun sets to soak in the open-air bath and watch the sun slowly dip below the horizon.
The open-air bath of Furofushi Onsen is built on the Sea of Japan coast behind the inn’s main building, constructed with rocks sourced locally. During storms, it has even been completely submerged by waves. The open-air bath is divided into a women’s section and a mixed-gender section. The mixed-gender pool has an irregular gourd shape. Located by the coast, the spring water is a highly saline iron-rich chloride spring. The yellowish-brown hot spring takes on an incredible golden hue under the setting sun. Soaking in it, with the salty sea breeze gently blowing, you can take in the breathtaking view of the Sea of Japan, creating a feeling of being completely immersed in the ocean, as if one with the universe. The sound of the waves provides both visual and auditory satisfaction. The inn’s observation bath, situated higher up, also offers a stunning view of the Sea of Japan.
[Info]
Address: Aomori Prefecture, Shichinohe District, Fukaura Town, Osashima, Shimo-Kiyonai
Phone: +81-1-7374-3500
Water quality: Shi Xi Spring
Many visitors come to Furofushi Onsen just to see the coastal open-air bath at sunset. (Photo provided by MK Editorial Department)
Akita Prefecture’s “Nyuto Onsen” – Tsurunoyu Annex “Yama no Yado”
Tsurunoyu is the oldest onsen in Nyuto Onsen. According to records, it has been in operation since 1688. This inn, which still preserves the architecture of the samurai era from 350 years ago, features an irori (sunken hearth) in every independent guest room, known as Honjin. It attracts many visitors seeking a nostalgic experience, with rooms so sought-after that some people wait a whole year just to stay.
Tsurunoyu offers four different types of hot spring water. The most popular open-air bath is the mixed-gender one, featuring milky white water. To allow more guests to experience the natural charm of Nyuto Onsen, the annex “Yama no Yado” grandly opened in 1994, nestled among beech tree forests. From the lobby and restaurant to the guest rooms, all are separate wooden structures connected by corridors. In spring, you can enjoy clusters of skunk cabbage; in summer, the beech trees display fresh greenery; in autumn, the fiery red leaves; and in winter, the silver-white snowy world is breathtakingly beautiful. Just like the main building of Tsurunoyu, the “Yama no Yado” has only 11 rooms and also aims to provide guests with an escape from the pressures of urban life, so there are no TVs, allowing guests to truly immerse themselves in nature.
Dinner at “Yama no Yado” is served in the restaurant “Iori.” Each private dining room has an irori. The yam hot pot kept warm over the charcoal fire is Tsurunoyu’s pride and signature dish. The soft and chewy yam dumplings soak up the essence of the miso broth, making it hard to stop at just one bowl. Paired with grilled Kiridannpo, a specialty of Akita cooked by the irori, your taste buds are sure to be warmed.
[Info]
Address: 1-15 Nyuto, Kakunodate, Senboku City, Akita
Phone: +81-1-8746-2100
Water quality: Sodium-sulfur, calcium-salt carbonate hydrogen carbonate spring
Tsurunoyu is the oldest onsen in Nyuto Onsen. (Photo provided by MK Editorial Department)
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