【Monday Foodie Feature】Zhongshan Guesthouse: A Deconstructed Culinary Leap Through Time

What did the homes of Taiwan’s wealthy families look like in the 1920s and 1930s? A visit to Zhongshan Guesthouse might offer some insight. The renovated two-story building retains its original main structure, featuring a spacious courtyard shaded by greenery and an added second-floor balcony that instantly evokes nostalgia for gazing out of windows to the past. Because the restaurant owner, Dai Shengtang, is fond of the Shanghai atmosphere of the 1920s and 1930s, he specifically visited the former residences of Sun Yat-sen and Soong Ching-ling on the mainland. After meticulous research, he brought back captivating retro elements to the space—lavish Victorian lines that still reflect the grandeur of a well-established household. Antique gramophones, screens, old rattan chairs, and wooden desks collected from various places are scattered throughout. Though it’s a restaurant, it also depicts a homely living scene. Especially the spacious vintage sofa in the living room, adjacent to a faux fireplace, is so comfortable it almost makes you feel as if you’ve truly stepped into “home.”

Opened discreetly in 2004, Zhongshan Guesthouse aims to create a beautiful vision of “encountering 1920s Shanghai.” The restaurant’s sign was authorized through an agreement with the National History Museum, featuring the handwriting of Dr. Sun Yat-sen. The “Sun Wen” signature beside it has piqued the curiosity of many guests—but no, this isn’t a guesthouse opened by the Father of the Nation.

Not driven by profit, Zhongshan Guesthouse prioritizes providing guests with greater comfort and delicious cuisine. Operating by reservation only and changing its menu monthly, it keeps even regular customers feeling refreshed. Usually locked up and highly private, the interior is surprisingly spacious and cozy. The lush greenery in the courtyard comes from trees such as dragon juniper, crape myrtle, osmanthus, and mango, making it hard to resist lingering and admiring. The bronze door handles, the crystal chandelier at the entrance, and even the carpet and brass railing in the stairwell all perfectly embody a sense of retro elegance.

Beyond its beautiful environment, the guesthouse maintains equally high standards for its dishes. The set menu, ranging from appetizers to desserts, typically includes about five to eight courses. The core philosophy of the cuisine is “using Western techniques for Chinese ingredients or vice versa,” focusing on classic French cooking. Head chef Chen Heyuan, formerly part of the Hotel Royal Group system, excels in the creative thinking of “deconstructing and reassembling.” He builds upon a French foundation while incorporating locally sourced Chinese ingredients—for example, infusing dishes with Shaoxing wine or creating a “cinnamon-honey pineapple” using Western techniques. The interplay of Eastern and Western elements enhances the flavors without compromise, leaving diners marveling at the chef’s logic through taste and sight alike.

 

Several signature main dishes fully showcase this innovative culinary style. The deconstructed version of “Spanish Seafood Paella” differs from traditional methods—first, white rice is simmered in a seafood broth infused with white wine and saffron, then separately prepared seafood ingredients such as small squid from Penghu are cooked individually, allowing the seafood and rice to maintain their own spaces instead of being mixed together. Finally, it’s presented on an exquisite French-style plate, offering a double delight of flavor and visual appeal.