【Monday Foodie Fix】S.T.A.Y., the Sexiest Three-Star Dining Experience

Yannick Alléno, with his upright posture, may appear stern or even meticulous when silent, but the moment he speaks, his charm and elegance shine through. Anyone who has spoken with him will surely agree that his title of “France’s Sexiest Chef” — awarded in 2008 — is well-deserved.

 

Yannick Alléno earned his Michelin three-star rating in 2007 before turning 40, and later founded the global dining brand S.T.A.Y. (Simple Table Alléno Yannick). Yannick said, “I always dreamed of finding a restaurant where the food was delicious but the atmosphere relaxed — a place to enjoy great meals with friends. But I could never find one, so I created S.T.A.Y., so people can dine with family and friends in a joyful, laid-back setting while savoring classic cuisine.” That’s why his S.T.A.Y. must feature a “shared table” that accommodates up to 14 guests. The chef prepares generous portions served at the table, allowing everyone to share each exquisite dish together. The open-style “Pastry Sanctuary” dessert kitchen is also an essential concept, not only offering a front-row seat to the pastry chef’s stunning artistry but also inviting diners to join in the plating process and create their own personalized desserts.

It’s no surprise that Yannick Alléno, who values shared meals and human connection so deeply, comes from a large family. Growing up with over a dozen siblings and learning from his grandmother, who cooked for the whole household, Yannick developed his passion for cooking. He laughingly recalls deciding to become a chef at age 8 and starting his unwavering culinary journey before turning 15. Throughout his career, the influence of his grandmother is unmistakable: the “Chicken in a Bottle,” which brought him fame, is a modern reinterpretation of his grandmother’s signature dish. The double-sided serving platter used at the shared table, which can be flipped to change the mood during the meal, also stems from childhood dining memories with her. Perhaps it’s this deep bond with his beloved grandmother that infuses every detail of dining at S.T.A.Y. with warmth and thoughtfulness.

 

Taipei’s S.T.A.Y. is currently helmed by Sebastien Lefort, who is no less accomplished. He previously served as head chef of the French restaurant at Tokyo’s Shinjuku Hilton and earned Tokyo’s Michelin two-star honor in 2008. Later, he joined Yannick Alléno’s team in Taipei. Whether in Tokyo or Taipei, Sebastien has never compromised on the quality of his cooking. His top priority is consistency, and he says, “‘Consistency’ may sound simple, but with different challenges every day, maintaining quality is the most important aspect of my cooking.”

Sebastien appears slightly more rigorous than Yannick, but is incredibly humble and approachable. This time, he recommended the following dishes: the starter, Lobster Tower with Spinach Miso Salad, features a thin puff pastry base with lobster roe and mousse layered between the lobster meat and the crust, served alongside American spinach tossed in yuzu vinegar and red miso — perfectly balancing the briny richness of the Boston lobster. It’s rich and flavorful, yet refreshingly light.

 

The Potato and Leek Soup with Truffle Vegetables is made by sautéing diced potatoes in truffle cream, combining them with whipped cream infused with truffle oil, and then slowly adding a purée base of slow-cooked potatoes and Japanese leeks. The result is an incredibly indulgent soup. Though the combination of truffle, leek, and cream sounds heavy, it delivers layered, exquisite flavors. As the silky, aromatic soup enters your mouth, the contrasting textures of potato cubes and crispy leeks create a rich yet not cloying experience that leaves you thoroughly satisfied.

 

The main course, Pan-Seared Veal Tenderloin with Creamy Pappardelle and Veal Jus, uses Canadian veal tenderloin aged under three months, cooked to medium-rare perfection. Paired with a rich veal jus, it highlights the meat’s tenderness and juiciness. The surrounding pappardelle and Parmesan cheese serve as the perfect finishing touch, extending the delightful flavor memory of the veal.

Yannick Alléno actually started his career in desserts, so he places great importance on them and aims to elevate their status to match that of main courses. That’s why he specially created the “Pastry Sanctuary” space at S.T.A.Y. and brought in his protégé Loïc Caulliau to join the team in Taipei.