【Sunday Slow Time】Wufeng Farmers' Association Winery, the Dreamy Nectar of a Bygone Era

On the right side of the entrance, a wooden board is inscribed with bold calligraphy reading “A-Zhao-Wu Shop.” This is the winery’s retail section. According to Zeng Qingtang, the winery manager from the Wufeng Farmers’ Association’s Agricultural Leisure Tourism Department, A-Zhao-Wu is the old name for Wufeng, derived from the frequent mist that envelops the mountainous area. Additionally, the correct first character of the term “柑仔店” (a traditional convenience store) should actually be (the correct character), as early grocery stores used small round bamboo baskets (pronounced “a” in Taiwanese Hokkien) to hold snacks, small items, and daily necessities. Places filled with these baskets became known as “a-zai-dian.” These little stores have always been important community hubs, small in size but tightly knit and full of local charm. This also echoes the Wufeng Winery’s mission to start with local agriculture and foster cultural exchanges through local heritage.

The overall design of the winery is grounded in calm, deep wood tones, with a red brick floor lending an antique charm. The high, open interior might make you forget that this space was once an old grain barn — though traces of the rural past can still be spotted throughout. The warm glow of the dim lighting creates a cozy atmosphere, and perhaps it’s the nostalgic mood setting in, but even before tasting the sake, you’re already halfway to feeling tipsy.

The prototype of the Wufeng Farmers' Association Winery was an old grain barn, formerly called a “tǔ lóng jiān” — a building that housed rice hulling equipment. Wooden rice hullers, rice mills, and conveying blowers stand still as if time has never passed, and you can almost smell the fragrance of rice lingering in the air. In the back, a row of ancient clay jars is adorned with diamond-shaped red papers inscribed with the Chinese character for “sake” (酒) in seal script, small seal script, clerical script, and cursive script, offering a perfect annotation to the space.

 

When visiting the Wufeng Winery, you must try the “Chu Wu Sake,” made using Yizhuan Fragrant Rice — a local specialty of Wufeng — combined with Japanese sake brewing techniques. It’s a one-of-a-kind blend of Taiwanese and Japanese styles. Manager Zeng jokes, “None of us here have formal degrees in the field. But precisely because of that, we’ve fully inherited the rigorous sake brewing techniques of Japan.” Beyond the technique, there’s a deep passion for Taiwan’s agriculture. With outstanding results in international competitions, the Wufeng Winery has successfully used sake to promote Wufeng Fragrant Rice.

The winery has two main touring spaces. As you move from one grain barn to another, you’re instantly transported from old-time Taiwan to a Japanese izakaya. The striking large red table, traditional Japanese wooden sliding doors, and the swaying shadows of bamboo behind create an atmosphere where you can almost imagine the lively chatter and clinking glasses of a bustling crowd.

 

When you think of sake, you might picture it being gently warmed in a Japanese izakaya. In reality, sake can be enjoyed either chilled or warmed. “The higher the quality of the sake, the more we recommend drinking it chilled,” says Manager Zeng. It turns out that before drinking sake, you can check its polishing ratio to decide whether to have it warm or cold. A polishing ratio of 60% means 40% of the outer grain has been milled away, leaving 60% of the core to make the sake. Since the outer layers can affect the taste, the more that’s milled away, the higher the quality. Therefore, a polishing ratio below 60% means the sake took longer to make, is more difficult to produce, and is of higher grade — it’s best served chilled. Those with a polishing ratio above 60% can be served warm. I never knew temperature mattered so much when drinking sake, but this trip taught me quite a bit.