【Monday Foodie】Taoyuan’s Zhongzhen Market: Authentic Yunnan Snacks with Garrison Village Flavor
Last updated 2026-09-25 — Zhongzhen Market is Taiwan’s largest settlement of overseas Chinese from Yunnan and Myanmar, making it one of the most authentically garrison-village-flavored markets in the country. In addition to Yunnan specialty ingredients, on weekends there are also food stalls run by immigrants from Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, and Pakistan...
Text by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler
A nameless mixed-flavor rice noodle dish, topped with pork slices, pork liver, eggs, and Yunnan pickled vegetables, then sprinkled with some chopped scallions. The rich black broth is the key to its deliciousness. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Located at the border between Zhongli and Heping Town in Taoyuan, there is a place that could be called the most patriotic spot in Taiwan. Walking through it, strings of Taiwanese flags hang high in the sky, connecting the low-rise buildings, with the red, blue, and white flags particularly vivid and beautiful against the blue sky and white clouds. This is the now-defunct Zhongzhen New Village. The original garrison village buildings have been demolished, leaving only the bustling Zhongzhen Market on weekends.
During the Chinese Civil War, the once valiant Nationalist army, unable to withstand years of war and running out of supplies, scattered to the Yunnan-Myanmar region to carry out guerrilla warfare. At that time, Chiang Kai-shek withdrew the main force of the Nationalist army to Taiwan, leaving these troops in the Yunnan-Myanmar area, “like children without parents, with no support from above and no commanding officers of their own.” Zhang Laowang, now 71 years old, recalls: These troops fought guerrilla warfare everywhere, from 1949 to 1952, caught between Thailand, Myanmar, and Vietnam, facing enemies on all sides. It wasn’t until 1953 that Chiang Kai-shek withdrew these troops to Taiwan, along with their families—totaling over 580 households—to establish Zhongzhen New Village.
On Waimaodong Road outside Zhongzhen Market, most of the buildings are low-rise, with long rows of flags fluttering in the wind. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Taiwan’s Largest Yunnan-Myanmar Food Settlement
The Nationalist army and their families from Yunnan and Myanmar set up small stalls around their homes to make a living, selling familiar hometown flavors: rice noodles, Yunnan sliced beef, puff pastry buns, pea flour, and Yunnan water-pickled vegetables. Over time, this area became Taiwan’s largest Yunnan-Myanmar food settlement. The market also preserves several two-story red brick bungalows built in the 1950s, which were government housing originally allocated to the Nationalist soldiers.
Narrow alleys and small houses create a tranquil atmosphere.
The address system at Zhongzhen Market is a bit confusing. The large market is divided into three streets: the main road outside is Longdong Road, lined with several rice noodle shops; inside the market, Qianlong Street connects to Zhongshan Road in Pingzhen City and intersects with Longping Road. The shops inside are not large, mixed with scattered vegetable and drink stalls.
Light green pea flour sets into a jelly-like texture, topped with crushed peanuts, white sesame seeds, cilantro, drizzled with sesame oil and white vinegar, resulting in a smooth and refreshing taste. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
The Secret of the Nameless Rice Noodles
We first head to a nameless rice noodle shop on Qianlong Street. No need to search hard—the long line at the entrance is the best sign, and every seat is taken. Inside, there are two large pots of broth, with another dedicated to cooking the rice noodles. Stacks of soft white rice noodles are neatly piled in baskets, looking very inviting. With a constant stream of customers, the staff are constantly busy, barely lifting their heads.
First, the black broth from the large pot is transferred to a smaller pot on the gas stove, then pork liver, shredded pork, and an egg are added. The boiling broth quickly covers all the ingredients, and the shopkeeper then places the rice noodles and cooked ingredients into a large bowl. The broth from the small pot is first strained back into the larger pot, allowing the flavors of all the ingredients to meld repeatedly. Finally, more broth is scooped from the large pot into the bowl, topped with tangy and salty Yunnan pickled vegetables and scallions, resulting in an authentic Yunnan-style rice noodle dish.
Most of the shop’s customers are regulars. Seeing us waiting a long time after ordering, they urge the owner on our behalf, saying, “There are too many people, the boss often forgets, you have to remind him again.” The pregnant woman sitting across from us says that although she lives in Taoyuan City, she makes her husband bring her here every week. She doesn’t order anything else—just these rice noodles, because the broth is especially rich.
The rice noodles at Jiuwang Rice Noodle Shop have a slightly rough texture and are very chewy. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
The Art of Handmade Rice Noodles
To learn more about how the rice noodles are made, we visit a handmade rice noodle shop outside the market. The area is quiet and peaceful. The rice noodle master has already put away his tools for the day. A worker at the shop, affectionately called “Old Hu,” demonstrates the process of hanging the steamed rice noodles on bamboo poles. The steam wafts warmly in the space as he carefully lifts the rice noodles.
Every day at 2:30 PM, Zhang Laowang makes the rice noodles in the shop’s kitchen. In the small space, there is a large stove boiling water, with a bamboo pole nearby ready to dry the rice noodles. While explaining, Zhang Laowang deftly operates the rice mill. Soaked glutinous rice for four hours and leftover cooked rice from the previous day are mixed at a ratio of 10:3 and poured into the mill. Soon, thick rice slurry slowly flows out and pours into a large basin.
Zhang Jiuwang demonstrates the skill of gently peeling the steamed rice noodles off the round plate—a process that requires true expertise. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
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