First Visit to Kumamoto: A Century-Old Capital Where Old Meets New

Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s three most famous castles, stands alongside Osaka Castle and Himeji Castle. In 1591, Kato Kiyomasa, a trusted retainer of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, began constructing the castle on his domain. After decades of effort, it reached its current scale in 1606, and the following year it was renamed as Kumamoto Castle. In 1632, Hosokawa Tadatoshi took over the castle from the Kato family, and until the establishment of the Meiji government, Kumamoto Castle was renowned for being “impregnable” and “unbreakable”—even the formidable Saigo Takamori met defeat before its walls.

Kumamoto Castle’s original builder, Kato Kiyomasa, was a man who survived the chaos of war. Defense was a key consideration from the start of its construction, making Kumamoto Castle a complete witness to the development of functional architecture during the Warring States period. Thanks to his foresight, most of the structures within the castle have survived the ravages of war. The most worthwhile sights here are these remaining defensive structures. Starting with the outer long walls and leading up to the keep, a close look takes at least three hours, while a casual stroll will still amaze you with the vastness of the site.

Upon arriving at Kumamoto Castle, the first thing that catches your eye is the 242-meter-long wall to the south, the longest existing castle wall in Japan. Built along the inner moat, the Horikawa River, the black-and-white walls present a serene and distant atmosphere under the spring cherry blossoms. Walking along the moat, you can see numerous “yagura” (towers), which are connected to the walls. Some of them show signs of renovation from different eras, but because the walls and towers are relatively intact, you can still observe the rich layers formed by wood, stone, and plaster, showcasing the depth and elegance of the architecture. Among them, the most notable is the Uto Yagura, known as the “Third Keep.” Before 1666, it had one underground level and five above-ground levels, making it the tallest among the group of yagura. Moreover, its roof, like the larger and smaller keeps, features a shachihoko (a mythical creature with the head of a dragon and the body of a fish), earning it the title of the Third Keep. Its multiple kara-hafu (undulating gables) display a robust geometric form, making it the most beautiful black-and-white extension of the castle walls. Mr. Nakamura Masaru, a senior official at the Kumamoto Castle General Office of the Kumamoto City Tourism, Culture and Exchange Bureau, generously recommended the best spot to admire the beauty of the Uto Yagura: just outside the Hagizaka-mon Gate, turn right to the front of Kato Shrine. Looking back at the walls and Uto Yagura, you can see the keep behind the Uto Yagura unfurling its crane-like eaves under the blue sky, creating a delightful contrast with the sharp lines of the Uto Yagura. Up close, the Uto Yagura stands guard atop massive stone walls, its regal presence taking your breath away.

If you enter through the Rokubō Gate next to the wall and climb the stone steps, you can appreciate the stone-laying technique for which Lord Kato is most praised. Entering Kumamoto Castle via this route allows you to see the Warring States-era strategy of luring enemies in—successive layers of stone walls force enemies to climb laboriously, distracted and unable to notice the waiting defenders at vantage points. The upper parts of the walls especially use a vertical technique called “musha-gaeshi” (warrior-turn-back), which is gently sloped at the bottom but nearly vertical at the top, causing any attempt to climb to end in failure, hence the name.