[Traveler’s Notebook] Chiang Mai: Best Enjoyed Slowly

By TRAVELER Luxe / Wei
 

Chiang Mai was once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. With its rustic temple structures, vibrant artistic vibe, unhurried city rhythm, a mix of liveliness and calm, and the coexistence of tradition and innovation, its complex and varied urban face has made Chiang Mai a Shangri-La in the eyes of many nomadic travelers. Come to Chiang Mai and delve into the lesser-known ancient city secrets... the quiet morning scenery, the stylish urban art scene, retro Lanna-style accommodations, and the enchanting mountain forests in their pristine state. A perfect harmony of activity and stillness, past and present, it offers the luxurious nourishment of nature and art culture for the soul. How can such a Chiang Mai not be captivating?

A Quiet Morning: Perfect for Strolling
Morning Secrets & Scenic Views

Buddhism is deeply rooted in Chiang Mai, with hundreds of temples scattered both within and outside the ancient city, most adorned in resplendent gold. Devotees and tourists come and go incessantly. Rather than joining the bustling crowds at popular temples, I prefer the tranquil moments that cleanse the spirit. I rise early, before the city shifts into its daily rhythm, to capture the most beautiful morning scenes Chiang Mai has to offer.

I learned about Wat Umong (commonly translated as “U Mong”) from teacher Jiang Xun’s essay “No Dreams.” I still feel the name “无梦寺” (Wu Meng Si / No Dreams Temple) carries a more poetic imagery. Built in the late 13th century by King Mengrai of the Lanna Kingdom on a mountainside in the western suburbs of the city, Wat Umong was intended as a meditation site away from the noise. The name “Umong” means “tunnel,” referring to the cave-like passageways carved into the mountain. It was once abandoned but was restored in the 1940s.

Upon first arriving at Wat Umong, I couldn’t find the main entrance and accidentally entered through a lakeside path. The winding trail, overgrown with vegetation, passed through the ruins of an old structure and meandered toward the temple’s lake, creating a sense of adventure in the mountains. The lake water is an algae-green hue, with a small island in the center. Golden morning light filters diagonally through the trees, casting dappled shadows. A warm breeze fills the air, softening the heart. Catfish float on the lake’s surface, while pigeons flutter around people, swooping down to peck at birdseed when offered.

Wild chickens roam the forest in groups, either preening their feathers in confrontation or singing boldly atop Buddha statues without a care. The dogs are less active, lying asleep on their round bellies, too lazy to even twitch an ear. Chickens and dogs coexist peacefully, creating an atmosphere of harmony and detachment from worldly concerns. As you stroll through the temple grounds and climb a small hill via steps, you’ll find a stupa at the top. Part of the mountain wall has been hollowed out into several arched tunnels leading to deep caves — these are the “Umong.” The caves are interconnected by crisscrossing tunnels, and at the end of each one sits a stone Buddha draped in a leaning robe. A shaft of sunlight streams down from the center of the cave. Incense and candles burn, lotus flowers are offered to the golden Buddha, and as an elderly monk cleans the melted wax from candle holders in front of the statue, a yellow dog quietly lies beside him, keeping watch.