【Traveler's Tale】Ultimate Healing: World-Class Hot Spring Journeys

By TRAVELER Luxe / Wei
 

Japan’s Izu Peninsula has been one of the country’s most renowned hot spring destinations since ancient times. Blessed with breathtaking natural scenery of mountains and sea — the literary charm of Shuzenji Onsen, the hilltop serenity of Fugiyama Onsen on Izu Plateau — some poetic, others luxurious. Surrounded by the tranquil ambiance of hidden hot spring inns, indulging the senses, exploring scenic sights, savoring fine cuisine and wine at a leisurely pace — all combine to create a hot spring experience tailored for adults.

Japan’s most famous hot spring area is the Izu Peninsula, located in Shizuoka Prefecture, bordered by Sagami Bay to the east, Suruga Bay to the west, and facing the Pacific Ocean to the south. It was formed by submarine volcanoes and tectonic activity. Large volcanic groups are concentrated in the northern and central Izu regions on the eastern side of the peninsula, featuring rugged terrain and abundant hot spring resources. The Tōgendake Mountain and Shichiri-ga-hama Coast areas in the northeast were designated as part of the “Fujisan-Hakone-Izu National Park” in 1936 (Showa 11). With the completion of the Izu Kyuko Line and the Izuhakone Railway’s Sunzu Line, the spectacular views of mountains and ocean have made Izu Peninsula a highly sought-after luxury hot spring resort destination.
 
● Refined Elegance Shuzenji

Among the countless hot spring resorts on the Izu Peninsula, “Shuzenji Onsen” in the central Izu region is the oldest hot spring town. During the Heian period, the eminent monk Kōbō Daishi established Shuzenji Temple by the Katsura River, marking the beginning of Shuzenji’s history, with the temple’s name derived from the ritual instrument...

Condensing the deep hues of bamboo and moss

Walking along a gravel path through the bamboo grove, you’ll find several refined lodgings tucked away in the quiet depths. The curtain at the entrance is inscribed with elegant calligraphy that reads “Yagyū-no-sho.” The poetic charm of bamboo has inspired one of the most lyrical hot spring inns in Shuzenji. In 1970 (Showa 45), the renowned kaiseki restaurant “Yagyū” from Tokyo’s Shirokane district extended its warm hospitality to the mountains of Shuzenji. They planted bamboo, built structures, and founded the inn “Yagyū-no-sho.” The founding owner was an avid kendo enthusiast, and the inn draws inspiration from Yagyū Munenori, the legendary swordsman who founded the Yagyū Shinkage-ryū school of swordsmanship — his family once ruled the land where Yagyū-no-sho now stands. The discipline and focus required in kendo are distilled into the refined guest experience.

The architecture of the inn follows the “sukiya-zukuri” style. The term “sukiya” conveys a love for refined elegance, and sukiya-zukuri refers to a dwelling devoted to artistic taste, originating from the small tea houses of the Azuchi-Momoyama period. Tea masters of that era, contrary to the prevailing trend of extravagance, built simple yet graceful tea houses using bamboo and wood, avoiding superfluous decoration to express a serene and refined Zen aesthetic. Today, this style is synonymous with high-end Japanese architecture.

After undergoing a renovation for its 40th anniversary in 2009 (Heisei 21), Yagyū-no-sho now features 15 sukiya-style guest rooms, located in the main building and annexes. Each room varies in layout and furnishings, and is named after poetic images such as a single tree, swimming fish, the first wild geese, young bamboo, and moon shadows. Nestled among gardens and forested hills, the rooms are accompanied year-round by the gentle sounds of streams in the courtyards and ponds. The seasons unfold — cherry blossoms blanketing the grounds like snow in early spring, cool green bamboo bringing relief in summer, red leaves painting the scenery in vivid hues in late autumn, and minimalist karesansui landscapes in winter.