【Travelers' Notes】Four Must-Visit Strolling Spots in Tokyo's Charming Shitamachi District

By Wei, TRAVELER Luxe Travelers' Notes
 
Tokyo’s Edo-era commoner district "Shitamachi," compared to the modern urban image, feels much more approachable. Hidden down alleyways are old traditional houses, whose traces of time bring people closer to the city. Exploring Shitamachi means strolling through the new artsy Left Bank of “Kiyosumi-Shirakawa,” visiting well-worn traditional homes that have stood the test of time, listening to nostalgic stories, feeling warm human connections, and discovering some of the most beautiful sights of Tokyo.

Yama Shokudo: Savoring Warm Human Connections
In a corner of Kiyosumi-Shirakawa’s bustling Edo-ku deep-sea materials museum street, there lies a modest Japanese pub called “Yama Shokudo.” In front of the glass-wooden sliding doors sit two baskets filled with large, bright red and golden apples, along with a uniquely handwritten menu. Behind the door, a display cabinet showcasing various ingredients acts as a partition between the indoor spaces, yet it cannot block the warm glow of the yellow lights spilling out, enticing diners to step inside.

"Yama Shokudo is a commoner’s diner," says Yaezawa Michie, one of the managers who also greets customers. There’s nothing overly fancy—just a simple adherence to the spirit of a diner, offering affordable, nutritious, and delicious meals. Yaezawa, who originally worked in the food industry, was a loyal customer of Yama Shokudo before taking it over in 2010 together with chef Yamatani Tomoo, following the previous owner falling ill. The two divided responsibilities and jointly run the place. They retained the original layout, concept, and business model—the old space repurposed from an ironworks factory, with exposed gray concrete walls paired with wooden floors and furniture, and vintage items like a petroleum heater, all evoking the lifestyle of the Showa era. The menu changes daily according to the season, and with the concept of “Eat Good,” they prepare "mom’s home cooking."

Yama Shokudo
Add: 2-11-6 Mihoshi, Koto-ku, Tokyo, Japan, h\Building 1A
Time: Closed Mon–Tue; Open Sat–Sun from 12:00 until sold out, Wed–Fri from 17:30 until sold out. Irregular holidays and special operating hours apply—please check the monthly FB announcement.
Price: “Dinner Set” ¥1,500, table charge ¥250 per person, waived if drinks are ordered.
Note: Seating is limited, so reservations are recommended. As English service is not available, customers should have basic Japanese reading and speaking skills.
 
ARiSE Coffee, The Human Touch of Coffee
In Kiyosumi-Shirakawa’s coffee roasteries, while internationally renowned spots like Blue Bottle and Allpress Espresso are popular, for a taste of authentic Japanese coffee flavor, you must visit “ARiSE Coffee” by roaster Hiroki Hayashi, one of the pioneers of the third-wave coffee movement in the area.