Okura-ya has launched sales — Taiwan’s unagi rice bowls are nearly half the price of those in Japan

▲ Unagi Donburi Set.

Reported and photographed by Huang Shiyuan, Taipei

The global overseas flagship store of Japan’s century-old Fukuoka unagi restaurant Tanbaan, named “Okura-ya,” officially opened on March 15. Its signature Unagi Donburi Set and Steamed Unagi Set are each available in three sizes — Pine, Bamboo, and Plum — with the lowest starting at just NT$380, nearly half the price of the original Tanbaan in Japan. Additionally, there are individual items such as unagi bones, grilled unagi liver, and grilled unagi roe, priced between NT$80 and NT$120.

The Unagi Donburi Set and Steamed Unagi Set are each available in three sizes — Pine, Bamboo, and Plum — priced at NT$580, NT$480, and NT$380 respectively. This is nearly half the price of the Japanese Tanbaan’s Pine (¥3,800 / NT$1,026), Bamboo (¥3,200 / NT$864), and Plum (¥2,500 / NT$675) sets. Despite the lower prices, the unagi used is farmed in Lukang, Taiwan.


▲ Steamed Unagi Set.


▲ The Unagi Cabinet Set offers a “three ways to eat unagi” experience for NT$500.

The Japanese unagi specialty restaurant Tanbaan has a history of over 100 years, having been established during the Taisho era and passed down through three generations. It was once recommended in the Michelin Fukuoka & Saga 2014 Special Edition. Taiwan’s Okura-ya is the brand’s first overseas branch, established through a collaboration between Tanbaan, Maruyasu Soy Sauce, and Masaen Hall (Jetron Commercial Enterprise). During its initial opening period, senior chefs from the flagship store in Japan will be dispatched to provide on-site guidance.


▲ Tanbaan employs the Kansai-style technique, slicing from the belly side, using long iron skewers, and piercing at a skin-to-meat ratio of about 3:7.

“It takes three years to learn how to skewer, eight years to learn how to fillet, and a lifetime to master grilling” — this saying reflects how the art of grilled unagi requires years of refinement. Tanbaan uses the Kansai-style technique, slicing from the belly side, using long iron skewers, and piercing at a skin-to-meat ratio of about 3:7. Furthermore, the third-generation owner, Hiroshi Ogata, has incorporated his own research to develop a unique Tanbaan grilling method. This approach skips the steaming process and instead involves fully grilling the unagi from raw to well-done, while pouring water over it three times during cooking to cool it down. This is mainly because different parts of the unagi, such as the head and tail, have varying thicknesses, so the fish must be moved and cooled evenly to achieve uniform heating. During the grilling process, Tanbaan’s special unagi sauce is brushed on three separate times.


▲ The unagi is grilled fully from raw to well-done.


▲ The unagi is cooled with water three times during the grilling process.


▲ The unagi sauce is brushed on three times during grilling.

Steamed unagi is a less familiar cooking method among Taiwanese, but it is a unique way of eating unagi originating in Fukuoka, Kyushu. As early as the Edo period, because unagi would become tough and cold if left too long, steaming the ingredients became a new way to enjoy them without wasting food. First, the unagi is grilled, then placed along with a wooden container holding steamed rice and shredded egg crepe into a steamer and heated for about five minutes. This steaming enhances the flavor, and the final dish is served in a specially made lacquered container.


▲ Unagi Tamagoyaki (unagi omelet).


▲ Grilled unagi liver.

In addition, an essential element of unagi kabayaki is the sauce, and one of the most important components of the sauce is soy sauce. Okura-ya selected Taiwan’s local brand Maruyasu Soy Sauce’s classic “Handmade Black Bean Soy Sauce” and “Pure Brewed Soybean and Wheat Sauce” product lines. After more than a year of trials and evaluations, dozens of different sauces were tested and combined with the flagship store’s exclusive recipe in Japan. Additionally, sweet elements typical of Kansai-style sauces such as mirin and rock sugar were added. Finally, a unique unagi sauce flavor was developed that was recognized by Mr. Hiroshi Ogata and matches the taste of Tanbaan, yet is exclusive to Okura-ya.

Address: No. 27, Lane 280, Guangfu South Road, Da’an District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2721-8555