Anita Mui’s Late-Night Dining Spot: A Laneway Pork Bone Congee with Savory Meat Aroma

Text & Photos by Ng Ka Fai | Excerpted from “Hong Kong’s Old Flavors: 50+ Hidden Laneway Eateries Loved by Locals” published by Mook Magazine

If I were to say everyone has a Brokeback Mountain in their heart, I’d rather believe we all have a secret late-night dining spot. Mine is in Tsim Sha Tsui. Calling it a “dining spot” is actually an overstatement—it’s just a wooden cart run by a single vendor, nameless, operating only at 11:30 PM in a narrow alley, specializing in pork bone congee, hence nicknamed by customers as “Laneway Pork Bone Congee.”



A Must-Try Late-Night Snack After an Anita Mui Party
I first discovered this little cart when I had just graduated and was starting to explore the city. I heard that the late diva Anita Mui would often ask her assistant to buy congee here for a late-night snack after drinking or parties. We, a group of young people, followed suit, coming here to soothe our stomachs after wild nights out. Over the years, I never ran into Anita Mui, but I did witness many bizarre and colorful stories of life.

Back then, it was common to see a middle-aged woman accompanied by a group of young men coming here for late-night snacks. We thought they were all her kept men. Later, we found out the woman, nicknamed Sister Qi, was actually another legendary figure in the entertainment industry—Ms. Lai Siu Qi, famous for her tailoring skills. It was said her craftsmanship was so exquisite that many celebrities insisted on wearing her custom-made stage outfits or movie costumes. As for the so-called “kept men,” they weren’t freeloaders either—they were actually troubled youths whom Sister Qi wanted to help.



Being able to run a stall in Tsim Sha Tsui for over 30 years, Uncle Jim, the boss, should also be considered one of the city’s eccentrics. Back in the day, he simply wanted to run a late-night food stall to support his family. But because his customers were so fond of his congee—and he himself loved pork bone congee—he eventually made it his main business, roaming the streets of Tsim Sha Tsui. Uncle Jim’s pork bone congee is simple to make: pork ribs are salted for two hours, then simmered with dried bonito flakes, peanuts, and rice to create the congee. Before serving, he sprinkles diced preserved turnip and shredded lettuce on top. The flavor is savory with a meaty aroma, plus the subtle sweetness of dried bonito. Though not as thick as congee from traditional shops, it carries a homely taste that attracts many night owls in the city, letting them feel the warmth of home through his congee.



Healing Night Owls
Once, I playfully asked Uncle Jim why he only operates at night. He replied bluntly, “I need the daytime to cook the congee!” Uncle Jim’s quirks aren’t limited to selling congee at night. One time, while I was there, a drunk office worker stumbled alone into the alley, ordered congee, and just as he was about to sit down, he slipped and fell flat on his face. Luckily, the small stools and tables back then didn’t cause too much harm. Without hesitation, Uncle Jim helped the drunk man up, flagged down a taxi, and instructed the driver to take him home. Before the man left, Uncle Jim even packed a takeaway bowl of pork bone congee for him—completely free of charge.
Scenes like these, or even more dramatic ones, were nothing new to Uncle Jim, which is why he handled them so calmly. But to an outsider like me, it could only be described as truly remarkable. Times have changed—Anita Mui has left us, and I heard Sister Qi immigrated to the U.S. many years ago. Even Uncle Jim no longer mans the stall every night like he used to. Amidst the changing times, what remains unchanged is the laneway pork bone congee, continuing to comfort customers with its homely flavors, helping them set down the heavy burdens on their shoulders for a moment, filling the void with a warm bowl of congee. Once full, they let go, and from then on, only the beautiful memories remain.



Such scenes, or perhaps even more dramatic ones, have long since ceased to surprise Zhan Bo, who has developed an unflappable approach to handling them. Yet witnessing it all can only be described as truly marvelous. Time has changed, and Miss Anita Mui has since passed away. It’s said that Sister Qi also emigrated to the United States many years ago. Even Zhan Bo himself no longer keeps nightly watch in the alley as he once did. Amidst the shifting tides of time, perhaps the only constant is the pork bone congee in the alley, which continues to heal guests with its homely flavors — allowing everyone to momentarily set down the heavy mountain they carry on their shoulders, filling the void with good porridge. Once well-fed, people find themselves letting go, and from then on, the memories are nothing but beautiful.

【Laneway Pork Bone Congee】
Address: Lane beside 8K, Cumberland Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Business Hours: 23:30 – 3:00 AM