Wooden partitions once broke Zhang Ziyi’s heart; the Grand Hotel’s love and sorrow span a century

▲ The “Grand Hotel” served as a filming location for Isabella, Butterfly, and 2046. (Right photo / from the internet)

Reported and photographed by You T-Ru / Macau

Standing at the entrance of Macau’s “Grand Hotel,” the classic scent of old Macau fills your nostrils. “Almost every building on this street is not for sale, because this street is steeped in too much history and stories,” said Yip Shung-yan, the fifth-generation successor of the Grand Hotel. When visiting Macau, you can’t talk about the city without delving into its history, because the heyday of this “Grand Hotel” is far more than what you can grasp just by watching Isabella or 2046.

Those who have seen classic Chinese films like 2046, Isabella, or Butterfly will certainly be familiar with the “Grand Hotel.” Once a film set, the Grand Hotel retains its traditional architectural style. As you step through its entrance, it’s as if time rewinds, allowing you to walk alongside actors like Shawn Yue, Tony Leung Chiu-wai, and Maggie Cheung into the timeless ambiance of a century-old heritage site—experiencing a bittersweet tale of love and hate, and feeling the heartache Zhang Ziyi endured in 2046 when she heard Tony Leung’s merrymaking sounds from behind a wooden partition.


▲ % and Naou B⌒Lu Zheng?? Xie Zhi Xi are all historic buildings.


“Would you like to hear a story about Macau?” While visiting the “Grand Hotel,” the reporter happened upon the fifth-generation successor Yip Shung-yan and her family. Her parents, dressed smartly, were slowly strolling through the hotel interior. Yip Shung-yan said that the day the whole family appeared at the hotel was precisely when it was about to undergo transformation.

Operating since the 1930s, the “Grand Hotel” once enjoyed great prestige. “More than 50 years ago, having a washbasin and a fan in a room already made a hotel quite decent,” Yip Shung-yan said. After decades of operation, the “Grand Hotel” interior remains true to its past—unlike some nearby historical sites where only the shells survive. Its decades-old appearance has been fully preserved, from the entrance staircase, tiles, doors, and partition walls to the beds and furniture inside the rooms, which have barely changed, let alone had air conditioning installed.

 
▲ The hotel’s entrance staircase remains unchanged from the past.

Yip Shung-yan said that to understand the story of the “Grand Hotel,” one must go back to 1875. From 1875 to 1930, the hotel’s original site was a private club. At the time, Rua da Felicidade—where many elites gathered—was bustling with officials and wealthy patrons conducting business, marking the start of Macau’s commercial rise and prosperity. After 1930, the hotel was officially registered as such by Zou Han under the commission of then-owner Wang Juan. According to ancestral records, Wang Juan was Yip Shung-yan’s maternal great-grandmother.

Later, during Macau’s turbulent Cultural Revolution period, many intellectuals and wealthy locals, fearing persecution, entrusted their properties to others and fled elsewhere. Wang Juan was among them—she entrusted her assets to someone else before escaping, and after several generations of transfers and ownership changes, many original property rights were lost. Numerous buildings along Rua da Felicidade became co-owned by dozens of people due to this history.


▲ The operators of the Grand Hotel, from left: fifth-generation Yip Shung-yan, veteran employee Uncle Gan, Aunt Shen, and Yip’s mother, Tsang Wai-yee.



 
 
▲ Ascending the wide staircase to the second floor, a sea of emerald-green paint spreads out before your eyes.

 
▲ The shared bathrooms in the guesthouse remain in their original state.


▲ The guesthouse rooms.

“Do you know why we’ve never made any changes? Because this house has far too complicated a ‘bloodline,’” Yip Shung-yan said. The issue of old houses in Macau isn’t something that can be explained in a few words. The current site of the “Grand Hotel” has over 200,000 registered property shares, with more than 40 owners—all claiming ownership. Without unanimous consent, no internal renovations can even be considered.

Moreover, since Rua da Felicidade was officially designated as part of Macau’s Historic Centre and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, any renovation or construction within historical buildings requires layers of approval. Even if Yip Shung-yan wanted to restore the hotel to its full glory, she’s effectively powerless.


▲ Room 205 is the designated filming room for various movies.


▲ This is the room used for filming multiple movies, including 2046 and Isabella.


▲ The cabinets and tables inside the room.


▲ The room’s flooring and trash bin also exude vintage charm.

 
▲ Left: More than 50 years ago, having a washbasin and a fan in a room already made a hotel quite decent. Right: Balcony of Room 205.


▲ An old fan.

Speaking of preserving the elegance of old buildings, Yip Shung-yan said the “Grand Hotel” is one of the very few historic structures in Macau where both interiors and exteriors remain intact. But like the human body, aging buildings require slow, careful restoration to continue standing. “My parents are getting older, and I hope that in my generation, we can clarify the property rights status so that this century-old building can maintain its finest form.”

Stepping into the “Grand Hotel” is like stepping into Macau’s history. Ascending the wide staircase to the second floor, a sea of emerald-green paint spreads out before your eyes. “These are the original colors of the old house—we’ve never changed them,” Yip Shung-yan said. The small tiles occasionally bear cracks, the partition walls are tilted and warped, old light tubes glow quietly in corners, and electric fans roar loudly when turned on. On the balcony, looking out over Rua da Felicidade, elderly people lean on walking sticks, shuffling along the memory-laden path of history.


▲ Looking toward Rua da Felicidade, elderly people lean on walking sticks, shuffling along the memory-laden path of history.
[Grand Hotel]
Address: Rua da Felicidade, Freguesia de São Lourenço, Macau Peninsula (福隆新街，风顺堂区，澳门半岛)
Website:http://www.sanvahotel.com/