3,000 orders sold in a single day — fresh-killed and grilled eel from Narita’s old street

The eel’s body is smooth yet full of tiny bones, and the skill required to quickly dispatch them is remarkable. (Photo by Lin Chengyan)

The freshly served eel rice glistens with oil and aroma, paired with steamed white rice brushed with savory sauce — one bite after another, and the box is soon bottom-up. (Photo by Lin Chengyan)

Japan’s Kanto Plain has long been a land of abundant produce, blessed by the Tone River and other water systems that provide a rich supply of ingredients. Near the northern edge of this fertile region lies Narita, where numerous eel restaurants dot the area. Among them, at least 30 specialize in unagi donburi (eel rice bowls), and among these, “Kawafuu” is the most renowned.

You don’t even need to reach “Kawafuu” to catch the scent — the aroma of charcoal-grilled eel with savory sauce wafts through the air, teasing the taste buds of passersby. Kawafuu is a long-established eel restaurant in the area, now run by its third generation. Its main store, located along the approach to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple, is a traditional Japanese house built in 1917, exuding a nostalgic and cozy atmosphere. Many food connoisseurs specifically seek this spot out, and it’s said to sell up to 3,000 bowls a day during peak season.

Not sure which shop is Kawafuu? Just look for the one where you can see an artisan butchering eels right in front. Kawafuu selects only the freshest live eels daily, dispatching, steaming, and grilling them on-site. The secret to its deliciousness lies in the speed and precision of its cooking process. Watch as the skilled chef deftly picks up a live eel from the basket, nails its head firmly to a wooden board, swiftly chops it off, then makes a clean incision along the back to remove the fillet — every move is seamless. Meanwhile, the grill master is equally impressive: the steamed eel meat is tender and soft, flipped rhythmically over the charcoal fire, periodically dipped in the sauce vat to soak up the rich flavor. Under the high heat, eel fat drips continuously, and even seasoned chefs find their eyes stung by the smoke.

Kawafuu offers its eel rice in three price tiers based on portion size, but the grade of eel remains the same across all. For the best experience, eat the eel rice while it’s hot, and feel free to sprinkle a bit of sansho pepper for added flavor. Kawafuu’s eel rice has no muddy aftertaste — the meat is delicate with a deep umami from the sauce. Under the high heat of the charcoal grill, the fat melts away, the skin turns crispy yet elastic, making it all too easy to polish off bowl after bowl. After finishing the rice, don’t miss the complimentary eel liver soup — since Kawafuu’s eels are fresh-killed, even the innards are free from any fishy smell. The broth is clear and refined, a rare delicacy indeed.

In Tokyo, a good bowl of eel rice can be quite pricey, but if you’re looking for delicious and affordable eel rice, just take a train to Narita Station. Whether you’re looking to nourish your body or satisfy a craving, the eel rice at Naritasan’s “Kawafuu” is the top choice.

Shop Information:

Name: Kawafuu

Address: 386 Nakancho, Narita City, Chiba Prefecture

Business Hours: 10:00–17:00

Closed: Open year-round (may have irregular holidays depending on the season)

Access: A 10-minute walk from JR “Narita Station” or Keisei Electric Railway “Keisei Narita Station”

No reservations accepted; during busy times, a numbered ticket system is in place for waiting.