"Old-Timer's Meat" Known Only to Taiwanese: The Magical Deliciousness of Australian Wagyu Ribeye

Reported and photographed by Chen Tzu-yin / Taipei

The first dish served was "Beef Consommé with Australian Grade 8 Wagyu New York Strip Roll." Chef Hsu Han-chia presented it with diced vegetables and Job’s tears as the base, topped with an Australian Grade 8 Wagyu New York strip featuring evenly distributed marbling. But the highlight came next, when the waiter brought out the "Beef Consommé." Nearly 100°C beef consommé was poured onto a plate around 50°C, allowing diners to even observe the cooking process of the beef. Chef Hsu explained this was to prevent the beef from overcooking during the few minutes it took to travel from kitchen to table.



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This soup is actually a common traditional French dish. It is made by simmering beef bones and vegetables for up to eight hours before straining. Once cooled, beef, carrots, onions, celery, garlic, pepper, red wine, brandy, and — crucially — egg whites are added. The egg whites help clarify the broth, resulting in a clean, sweet taste with a slight viscous texture — which turns out to be the gelatin from the beef bones. The beef itself is incredibly tender, perfectly pink and medium-rare, making this starter truly exceptional.

The "top cap meat," also known as "old-timer's meat" and known only to Taiwanese, was explained by Chef Hsu as a cut discovered by Taiwanese chefs about twenty years ago. Chefs outside Taiwan are unaware of this particular cut, but many local food connoisseurs are well acquainted with its deliciousness — hence the nickname "old-timer's meat." On a six-kilogram Australian Wagyu carcass, there is less than one kilogram of this cut.


▲ This top cap meat, or old-timer's meat, which only Taiwanese know about, bends slightly when removed due to its location in the ribeye section.

For this dish, Chef Hsu used Grade 9 ribeye old-timer's meat paired with fleur de sel, a representative French sea salt. This salt forms as crystals on the surface of salt pans during harvest, hence its poetic name. Chef Hsu plated it simply with just the single type of salt and mashed potatoes, letting the old-timer's meat take center stage. He said Taiwanese prefer their beef seared with a slightly charred exterior, and once you take a bite, you'll be won over by the ultimate “crispy outside, tender inside” flavor. As you chew, the savory sweetness bursts from the meat, revealing how the chef has locked in all its rich flavors. You have to try it to believe how delicious it is.


▲ The crispy outside and tender inside is a favorite among Taiwanese. The chef perfectly locks in the meat’s inherent sweetness, showcasing this old-timer's meat at its finest.

In addition to Chef Hsu Han-chia’s offerings in the Anton Room this summer, other restaurants in the Sheraton, such as the Chen Garden and Pizza House, have also introduced new dishes. Among them, Chen Garden’s Jiangnan Baihua Chicken features Chef Wu Chien-peng’s creative combination of free-range chicken and shrimp paste. Not only must the frying of the chicken be done with precise heat control, but the bones and sinews must also be carefully removed before the shrimp paste is incorporated and the chicken is fried a second time to completion. The shrimp paste helps cut through the richness of the chicken, and when paired with pineapple on the side, it results in a rich and multi-layered taste.

 
▲ Jiangnan Baihua Chicken features golden, crispy skin, while the shrimp paste at the bottom enhances texture and cuts greasiness. Another dish from Chen Garden, Jade Ring Premium Abalone, offers springy abalone paired with tender, easy-to-eat radish, delivering a sweet and refreshing flavor.

At Pizza House, Chef Lee Cheng-li especially recommends the "Burrata Cheese Tomato Salad," which uses a whole peeled tomato paired with Italian cheese flown in from Italy with only a five-day shelf life, finished with a drizzle of sweet and sour balsamic reduction. The delicious cheese and the natural sweetness of the tomato are perfectly combined, while the tangy vinegar adds a nuanced touch to the flavor profile, making it incredibly tasty.


▲ Chef Lee Cheng-li from Pizza House demonstrates how to plate the "Burrata Cheese Tomato Salad."


▲ The Italian cheese flown in from Italy has only a five-day optimal taste window, isn’t greasy at all, and pairs wonderfully with fresh tomatoes and the texture-enhancing balsamic reduction.


▲ The ultra-dreamy dessert "French White Peach Vanilla Ice Cream with Mixed Berry Sauce" is a customer favorite among women at the Anton Room. Even the ice cream is handmade by the chef, offering a taste of pure happiness.

(Sheraton Taipei’s Anton Room launches its “Australian Wagyu” Summer Gourmet Menu starting July 10. Business hours: Lunch 11:30–14:30, Dinner 18:00–22:00. For details and reservations, please contact the restaurant directly.)