The stinky tofu is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside — a bite releases the soybean juice, while the pickled vegetables are "crisp and refreshing."

Photo & Text /Xiaohu’s Dream Food Blog

Last year, I went to Yuanli twice within just about two months (I’d never been there my whole life). As a total stranger in town, if it weren’t for Mika Jie, known as the “boss of Yuanli,” guiding me, I really wouldn’t have known what to eat, what I should eat, or what I must eat.

But this little shop called Shanjiao Stinky Tofu is the only one I’ve heard of, as it’s the favorite spot of well-known blogger “Orange Dog,” who claims it’s the best stinky tofu he’s ever had. Just imagine, as a stinky tofu enthusiast, how could I not bring you all to take a look?

If I remember correctly, this was our last stop of the day, and we rushed here even at the risk of missing the train — but all thanks to Mika Jie driving us there. When we arrived at the shop, for some reason I kept pronouncing the name as “Shanjiaxia Stinky Tofu,” even though there’s no “xia” (down) in the actual name.


The atmosphere inside feels like a home combined with a shop, with seating extending all the way to the back wall — a clear sign of a very popular place. It’s said that during holidays, it’s sometimes hard to even get a seat, so it’s definitely a tough contender.


To be honest, if my stomach hadn’t already been stuffed with all kinds of food that day (I must’ve eaten at six or seven stalls), I would’ve also wanted to try the pork belly rice, minced pork rice, or even the tube rice cake. After all, who knows when I’ll be able to come back again?


The stinky tofu gave off a fragrance I love during the frying process... though some might find it smelly (laughs). When I leaned in to take a photo, I sensed something slightly different, but the aroma of the oil was so overwhelming it made it hard to think straight.

It wasn’t until it was served that I realized why I was confused earlier — the sizes and thicknesses of the stinky tofu here vary quite a bit, and not by a little. I wonder if this is proof of it being purely handmade?

I wonder if anyone else is as picky as I am about the pickled vegetables that come with fried stinky tofu. I like them slightly sweet but not too sweet, with a bit of sourness but not overly sharp. Sometimes the stinky tofu itself is delicious, but if the pickled veg isn’t good, it ruins the experience — sometimes I’d even order a stinky tofu I don’t particularly like just to eat the pickles.

The pickled vegetables at Shanjiao Stinky Tofu excel in that “crisp and refreshing” texture, and the balance between sweetness and sourness is pretty good, though I’m still picky enough to think, “It’d be even better if it were a bit sweeter.”


When it comes to stinky tofu, I’ve never been a fan of the method where it’s pan-fried into four small pieces — whether pan-fried before deep-frying or after. The only possible exception might be the Qiaotou Stinky Tofu I introduced earlier. So whenever I see this kind of unpan-fried, whole piece of stinky tofu, I’m over the moon, and I’ve always believed that frying the whole block and then gently tapping a small hole in it before drizzling a bit of sauce is the true way to enjoy fried stinky tofu.
 

This Shanjiao... no, Shanjiao Stinky Tofu — you don’t even need to bite down; just pierce it lightly with chopsticks and the soybean juice flows out. That’s exactly why I’m not a fan of the pan-fried version. The texture really is, as “Dog Master” said, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, with a nice bean aroma.

But the more I chewed, the less moved I felt. Later I realized it was slightly too salty and lacked that garlicky tang that teases the taste buds. That’s when the shop owner told us adding a small spoonful of chili sauce would make it tastier, and suddenly I understood what she meant.

All in all, the stinky tofu is indeed delicious, no doubt about it, but there are a few places in Taipei that I think are just as good, if not better. For example, Huarong Street Corner Stinky Tofu, which is my favorite in Taipei, and also the mobile vendor in Banqiao — the one I’ve been hesitant to write about, “Dougan Bo” — both are better than this place. Not to mention the three I tried in Yuli, Chihshang, and Guanshan during my last island-wide trip.


As if afraid I wouldn’t gain enough weight, Mika Jie somehow ordered another plate of braised dishes. She said I’d been looking at them for a while, probably wanting to eat them. Actually, it was because the shop owner was scooping out the braised items, and I got mesmerized by the smoky aroma of the braising broth.

The bean curd sheets here have a delicate texture and are actually quite tasty. I drizzled a bit of the soy sauce I also found slightly salty, and despite being full, I couldn’t help but pick up two or three pieces. I think anyone who wasn’t here would probably love them.


The skin-on parts carry a lot of grease, with the skin being Q (chewy) and slick — really delicious. Paired with a bit of the slightly chewy skin-edge meat, it’s really, really good.


Even the lean meat-only parts are surprisingly not dry or tough, showing the braising skill is quite on point.

The final dish, the small intestine and pig blood soup, was also decent. The pig blood in particular was crispy, smooth, and tender, with a taste and texture that were rather traditional — that soft, powdery feel after dissolving in your mouth is quite nostalgic.


[Shanjiao Stinky Tofu]

Address:No. 100-3, Wanli Road, Shanjiao Li, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County
Contact Number:0921-922-360
Business Hours:4:00 PM – 10:00 PM (Closed on Mondays)
Xiaohu’s Dream Food Blog
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