By day a café, by night an arts salon, and on holidays a family fun park

Text & Photos / Maji Xiong (Mr. Neurotic Bear Blog)

In Greek mythology, the sphinx would stop travelers and ask them a riddle: “What creature walks on four legs in the morning, two legs at noon, and three legs in the evening?” I won’t reveal the answer here, as I suspect most people have heard this story. There’s not much point in stating what everyone already knows.

But did you know? There’s a place in Yilan where it’s a café by day, an arts salon by night, and a family fun park on holidays.

The answer is Baiguo Tree Red Brick House Café in Yilan City.

In terms of the surrounding area, Baiguo Tree Red Brick House is located beneath Diudiuang Forest, right across from Yilan Railway Station, making it very convenient in terms of transportation. As for the building itself, Baiguo Tree Red Brick House is a registered historical structure in Yilan County. During the Japanese colonial period, this was the ‘Yilan Branch of the Rice Hull Inspection Office,’ where rice produced in Kavalan was gathered here for grading before being distributed elsewhere.

One more thing worth mentioning: Diudiuang Forest is the work of renowned local architect Huang Shengyuan, whose nine massive steel structures symbolize Yilan City’s former name, “Jiuxiong City.” The red brick building of the former rice hull inspection office is now used by writer Huang Chunming as the “Baiguo Tree Red Brick House,” serving as a hub for promoting arts and culture activities in the Yilan area.

Not to mention, there’s also a Starry Sky Train that seems to leap out from a picture book and fly through the air in Diudiuang Forest, which, along with the nearby JiMi Park, is a must-visit spot for many tourists coming to Yilan.

During the Qing Dynasty’s Jiaqing era, Yang Tingli, the prefect who strongly advocated for the establishment of Kavalan, once used the wood of the jiuxiong tree and thorny bamboo to build the city walls, planting them with bamboo on the outside and wood on the inside. When Yang Tingli left Yilan, he left behind a poem: “One day in the thick shade, I’ll recall the past, and hear people speak of Jiuxiong City.” From then on, the name Jiuxiong City spread far and wide.

I don’t know if there’s any connection between the baiguo tree I encountered at Baiguo Tree Red Brick House and the jiuxiong trees planted by Yang Tingli back then, but I do know that the fruit this tree bears will become whatever fruit you imagine it to be. If your imagined fruit isn’t there, maybe next time you visit Baiguo Tree Red Brick House, the fruit you’re thinking of will appear on the tree.

The best seat in the house is also located under this baiguo tree, but unfortunately, that prime spot has been claimed by an owl, and it’s so taken with it that it refuses to leave. As a result, this owl knows every story told here, every movie screened, and every event—big or small—that’s ever been held at Baiguo Tree Red Brick House.

Communication between humans and birds is still tricky (at least for me), so if you’re interested in the arts and cultural events at Baiguo Tree Red Brick House, you might want to check out their official fan page for updates.

Since the shop owner is a writer, it’s only natural that the store features his works prominently. During my visit, I happened to meet him in person, so I picked up another copy of “Teacher Poop” and even got an autograph from the author himself.

Because my schedule was thrown off by traffic jams, I could only stay here briefly before hurrying on my way home. But I’m already planning to bring back a few more of Huang Chunming’s works next time I’m home—and if possible, I’ll get all of them signed by him.

Those familiar with the literary world probably also know that Huang Chunming’s creations aren’t limited to novels and essays. In recent years, he has also delved into children’s theater and literature. The collage paintings on the wall in the store are all his handiwork. Oh, and by the way—Huang Chunming has even worked with Yilan’s traditional opera, Gezaixi. Truly, he’s a writer brimming with creative energy.

But let’s get back to the coffee. Although before my visit, I was more interested in Huang Chunming’s works than in the coffee here.

I ordered the Guatemala Flower God.

In terms of flavor, I’d say it leans toward a medium or medium-dark roast, probably not quite reaching the second crack. From what I remember, the distinctive characteristics of Guatemala Flower God were preserved very well. The entrance had a nice combination of mild fruity acidity and floral notes, followed by distinct fruity flavors. Overall, it was quite good.

But I’ll admit, I’m usually a bit biased toward coffees from Central and South America. As long as there aren’t any glaring issues, I tend to rate them just a little higher than other coffees.

The complimentary snacks that came with the coffee—the Yilan Tuzu pastry and the Salted Plum Cake—personally, I preferred the texture of the Salted Plum Cake (though it did steal quite a bit of the coffee’s thunder). It had a very traditional and authentic taste. The Yilan Tuzu pastry is said to be a snack eaten during the Qingming Festival by people in Yilan, but I, a Yilan native, don’t really remember this.

I guess it’s probably a memory from the older generation, like Huang Chunming’s time.

Because when I visited, the tables and chairs in the café were all arranged facing the stage, so I curiously asked the staff, and learned that there was an extra storytelling session scheduled for the afternoon. I thought it’d be a great way to unwind after spending nearly three hours stuck in traffic on National Freeway 5 in the morning.

On the other hand, it also served as a way to revisit some of the courses I took back in university.

The event started with a storyteller auntie kicking things off, leading the kids in a storytelling activity. Her lively and animated storytelling style kept all the audience members fully engaged, following the plot intently.

Later, upon the enthusiastic applause and invitation from the audience, Mr. Huang Chunming, who had been sitting to the side, couldn’t resist joining in. This made us even more engrossed in the story, and a few of the little ones were so into it, their jaws were practically on the floor. Truly, experience makes all the difference.

Looks like this place is not only a hub for artistic exchange but also a storytelling paradise for kids.

[Hundred Fruits Red Brick House】

Address: No. 13, Guangfu Road, Yilan City
Phone: 03-932-0840
Business Hours: 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM (Closed every Monday)

“Ma Ji Bear” has more great articles here: http://bear-oj.blogspot.tw/