Bath at sea level – A spectacular hot spring experience with the sea breeze

Text and photos / from “100 Selected Ryokan: Japan’s 100 Best Accommodations for Scenery, Hot Springs, and Cuisine” by Hiroshi Kashiwai, authority on Japanese ryokan and author of “Japan’s 100 Best Ryokan”

Yumoto Prince Hotel Nagisutei (Yumoto Onsen, Hakodate)

Hokkaido is famous as the kingdom of hot springs. Numerous natural springs bubble up across the region, giving rise to a wide array of competing inns. Among the most eye-catching are the mega-sized hotels. With abundant hot spring water and a diverse selection of baths, they’re almost like the originators of super sentōs [note 1]. Though that alone is quite entertaining, I personally prefer to soak leisurely in the hot water while gazing out over the vast ocean, feeling fully satisfied as I step out of the bath, embraced by the sea.



There aren’t many hot spring inns where such a wish can be fulfilled. In recent years, Hokkaido has seen the rise of numerous high-end accommodations, so if you’re willing to pay the right price, you can enjoy a standard—or even higher—level of comfort comparable to that on Honshu. However, inns where you can enjoy the magnificent scenery of Hokkaido while soaking in a hot spring at an affordable price are extremely rare, literally countable on one hand. One of them is located in the southern part of Hokkaido. Especially in Hakodate, in southern Hokkaido.

Departing from the exotic port city and heading along the coastline, it takes less than half an hour by car to reach Yumoto Onsen. The hot spring town faces the sea. There are many large and small hot spring hotels here, each offering different types of baths. Among them, “Nagisutei” at Yumoto Prince Hotel is a highly recommended, reasonably priced option. The words “Hakodate,” “Tsugaru Strait,” and “fishing boats’ lights” conjure an image straight out of an enka song world, yet “Prince” and “Nagisutei” give off a strong image of Shonan-style [note 3] pop music.



While not considered a high-end hotel, the open-air hot spring it has created by taking full advantage of its prime location is well worth recommending. First, let me introduce the open-air bath located just outside the main bathhouse on the first floor. This open-air bath is built by the sea, but what’s surprising is just how close it is to the beach. Anyone who sees this bath will be amazed. The distance between the bath and the sea is so minimal that while soaking, you can feel the sea breeze blowing and fine white sand brushing against your skin. On days when the waves are rough, splashes of white foam drift into the bath. When the water in the bath rises to sea level, the sense of closeness to the ocean seems to intensify. It’s a view like no other in Hokkaido, or perhaps even in all of Japan.

This hotel can also claim to have one distinction that might make it the best in Japan—it has the largest number of guest rooms with open-air baths, totaling as many as 155. From the open-air baths in these rooms, you can still enjoy beautiful ocean views, and anyone who loves hot spring scenery is sure to fall in love with this place.

At Yumoto Prince Hotel Nagisutei, you can enjoy more than just the hot springs. The cuisine, which features an abundance of fresh seafood, is also highly praised. In winter, the most mouthwatering offerings are crab and the rich tuna that migrates through the Tsugaru Strait. Both are nationally renowned specialties, and being able to enjoy them to your heart’s content here is a true delight. The buffet restaurant, which offers both Japanese and Western dishes, includes a luxurious sushi bar and teppanyaki. Hot springs, food, and scenic views—all three in one. If you’re looking to enjoy multiple experiences at an affordable price, I dare say this hot spring inn is the best choice in the northern land.