Anyone who sees it will be moved by it — the "Cloudscape Wilderness Open-Air Bath" at an altitude of 2,000 meters.

Text and photos / Japan’s 100 Famous Ryokan: The Essential Guide to Japan’s Best Lodging with Scenic Views, Hot Springs, and Cuisine by Hotel Authority Kazumi Kashiwai

"Takamine Onsen Tomo no Yado" is one of the inns I’ve long admired, drawing on hot springs discovered about a hundred years ago. At such a high elevation, even the revered monk Gyōki (Gyōki: a famous monk from the Nara period who helped construct Tōdai-ji Temple and the Great Buddha statue. Many hot spring locations across Japan were discovered by Gyōki.) would have struggled to reach on foot. It’s said that the hot spring was discovered by local farmers.



After undergoing various changes over time, the inn was established at its current location in 1983. An inn situated at an altitude of 2,000 meters, featuring hot spring baths overlooking sea of clouds, is not an everyday luxury. In winter, the area turns into a silver-white world, accessible only by snow vehicle. Even though I visited in early June, the cold wind was piercing, making it easy to imagine how harsh the environment must be during the depths of winter.

The source of the hot spring lies 300 meters below the inn, where it is pumped up and directed into the baths. The first and second floors of the inn feature communal baths. The men’s baths are respectively named “Takamine no Yu” and “Tomo no Yu.” However, the most captivating bath is the outdoor “Cloudscape Wilderness Open-Air Bath.” A short hike from the inn through lush woods leads to a wooden bath, and its breathtaking view leaves all who see it in awe.





I’ve hiked steep mountain trails many times to soak in hidden hot springs nestled in valleys. But at Takamine Onsen, you can drive up in summer and walk just a short distance to this bath with sweeping views. Moreover, the bathing area is divided into men’s and women’s sections, each with its own changing room, and the dense trees offer privacy so there's no need to worry about being seen. Here, you can fully enjoy the naturally flowing hot spring without disturbance — an exceptional experience reserved only for overnight guests.

Surrounded by greenery, the bath offers views of rolling mountains, and occasionally the clear call of a wild bird echoes from overhead before silence returns. When you pour the hot spring water over your body, even the faint sound of splashing creates an echo in the valley. That’s when I finally understood why the innkeeper doesn’t use the word “rotenburo” (open-air bath), but instead calls it an “open wilderness bath” (“野天風呂”).

Originally opened as a lodge for mountaineers, the facilities here aren’t as lavish as those of typical hot spring ryokan. There are only 23 guest rooms and few extra amenities. But when night falls and the lobby is lit with warm lamps, a magical atmosphere envelops the place — truly a sublime mountain retreat.