
Text and photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy
For someone like me, accustomed to nightlife, it’s no surprise to witness Taiwan’s remarkable late-night economy. Especially when it comes to food—though eating late at night isn’t the healthiest habit, the growling stomach is an undeniable fact. I remember once chatting with a friend about going out for a late-night snack, and he casually asked me to name ten places. If I could list them, we’d go eat together. To my surprise, I could easily name over twenty. It turns out there are many who stay up all night, but even more vendors working through the night. From pork rice and steak to soy milk, angelica noodles, and soup dumplings, the options are endless. This time, I was back in Changhua, actually making a somewhat deliberate trip just to see the legendary pork rice. Another spot rumored to have people lining up before it even opens—and selling out within as little as two hours—【Fish Market Pork Rice】.

(This is already during business hours—huge line, and it’s a weekday!) It’s 9 PM, and though it’s a bit of a walk from the train station area, I’ve been snacking and strolling along the way. By now, Huashan Road is pretty quiet, with only the streetlights still on, plus one or two noodle shops and grilled corn stalls. Why am I so curious about Changhua’s pork rice that I’d come specifically to eat it at night? Probably because I was blown away by the afternoon tea version—[Night Market Pork Rice]—last time. It was so memorable that I decided to come back and check out the midnight king of fatty goodness. After all, they’re both famously sold-out-in-minutes pork rice.

Approaching the corner of Zhongzheng Road, you’ll see the big sign for 【Fish Market Pork Rice】, though the lights aren’t on yet since it hasn’t opened. With about 20 minutes to go before opening, there are already familiar regulars waiting outside. When you get here, even though the lights aren’t on, just find a seat—it’s first-come, first-served, and there’s no need to take a number.

If you’re getting takeout, just line up outside and wait your turn. First come, first served—don’t be shy. Once the pork rice is ready and everything is set, it gets pretty lively.

After all, when you see that glistening pork belly, it’s only human to lose your composure. Though the sign says opening at 9:40 PM, once the food is prepped and ready, they’ll start serving anytime. So I generally recommend arriving by 9 PM. On the day I went, they started taking orders and serving food by 9:15 PM.

There’s no menu on the wall, but once they start selling, they’ll come around to take orders at each table. They’ll tell you what side dishes and soups are available. If I remember correctly, they’re all about 15 NT each.

The signature pork rice is 50 NT per bowl, with options for either pork belly or pork leg. The textures are quite different. If it’s your first time, I’d suggest trying both. Though personally, I prefer the pork leg.

【Signature Pork Rice / 50 NT / Pork Leg / Pork Belly】
If you often visit Changhua for pork rice, you’ll find that Changhua is practically the hometown of pork rice. It’s almost as ubiquitous as beef soup in Tainan—we’re talking a pork rice shop every few steps, with popular spots open 24/7. But even within central Taiwan, the styles of pork rice in Taichung and Changhua are slightly different. In Changhua, a bowl of pork rice is a simple combination of meat and white rice, without any pickled vegetables or sides. However, there are different cuts of pork, and if you don’t specify, most places will give you pork belly by default.

But I want to talk about the pork leg first. For me, pork rice is all about the fat. The pork leg has crescent-shaped fat, with a layer of fat tightly clinging to a small piece of lean meat, plus the aroma of scallions. If I had to pick a favorite from this Fish Market, it would be this cut. It’s a bit smaller, but the fat isn’t stewed into a mushy softness—it has a bit of bounce and stickiness. It doesn’t melt in your mouth right away, but it’s flavorful and sticky in a delicious way. The lean part is tender and just right, and the portion is just enough to leave you wanting just a little more. Honestly, you should probably order a bowl and then add an extra piece of pork.

The pork belly, on the other hand, has a clear distinction between fat and lean, and the portion is much larger. The meat is noticeably firmer but not tough. Some say it’s from the matsutake (or similar premium) section, so it’s actually quite chewy yet tender. However, because the sauce seeps in more, the already slightly sweet braising liquid tastes a bit cloying by the end, perhaps because of the higher fat content—it’s a bit oilier, but also more filling.

Personally, I’d choose the pork leg—it suits my taste better. But today, the rice was a bit of a letdown. Though definitely good enough to make the wait worthwhile, I think the afternoon tea version of [Night Market Pork Rice] was even better.

[Pork Bone Soup / 15 NT]
The broth is a simple, sweet pork bone stock that won’t leave you thirsty. It’s refreshing, with a good amount of meat that’s quite tender. The small downside is that there are quite a few tiny bones.

[Salted Vegetable Omelet / 5 NT + Fried Egg / 10 NT]
I only took a quick photo. Though I like mixing the yolk with the rice, for some reason, when eating pork rice, I prefer to eat them separately—I guess I don’t want the braising flavors to get mixed up. The salted vegetable omelet is decent, but since it’s pre-made and then brought over, it’s a bit cold. The fried egg today was a bit overcooked, but it still had some creamy yolk.

[Braised Cabbage / 15 NT]
It has quite a bit of minced meat and pork skin, and the portion is decent. It’s pretty good, and unlike some other places, it’s not swimming in oily soup. Instead, it’s quite refreshing with a hint of sweetness from the vegetables.

[Braised Dried Bamboo Shoots / 15 NT]
It’s pretty average—crisp and tangy with a refreshing taste, a simple side dish to go with rice.

I’ve only recently started getting to know Changhua’s pork rice. That sweet flavor and the aroma of the braising liquid are probably what won me over. The old braising liquid, simmered with scallions, isn’t heavy but just right. So far, I’ve tried three places: Fish Market, Night Market, and A Gu. Though the first two are super popular queue-worthy spots—one for late-night and one for afternoon tea—only the Night Market’s pork rice makes me willing to queue up again. Fish Market isn’t bad, but you really have to pick the right cut to have a great experience. As for the “sells out in two hours” claim—it’s a bit exaggerated, but apparently it usually sells out in two and a half to three hours. If you don’t mind waiting in line and you love fatty foods like I do, then you absolutely can’t miss pork rice when you’re in Changhua.

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【Fish Market Pork Rice, Zhongzheng Road │ Changhua】
Address: No. 320, Section 2, Zhongzheng Road, Changhua City, Changhua County
Phone: 0952-786767 (Don’t even think about asking for delivery)
Business Hours: 9:40 PM – 11:50 PM (Lucky ones might catch them closing at 12:30 AM)
Tip: Closed on Sundays. If you want to dine in without waiting, try arriving by 9:00 PM.
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