Tendō City: Hometown of Shogi and Hot Springs — Bring Home a “Left Horse” for Good Fortune

▲ Tendō City is the hometown of shogi and hot springs. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Reporter Lin Yanchen / Reporting from Yamagata

Japan’s 14-year-old “shogi prodigy” Fujii Sota achieved 29 consecutive wins, breaking a 30-year-old record and sparking a nationwide “shogi fever” in 2017. In Taiwan, the movie *March Comes in Like a Lion* also piqued public interest in the game. To truly immerse yourself in shogi culture, you must visit Tendō City in Yamagata Prefecture.

Located in eastern Yamagata Prefecture with a population of about 62,000, Tendō is known for its shogi and hot springs. The city produces 95% of all shogi pieces in Japan, meaning nearly every game played in the country uses Tendō-made pieces. In 1996, Tendō shogi was designated as a “Traditional Craft” by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry.

▲ At Eiguchō, you can try your hand at writing shogi characters. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Eiguchō is a local shop that sells shogi sets and offers cultural experiences — a kind of “mini museum.” For just ¥860, visitors can try writing their own shogi characters. Typically, the shop provides templates like the “King” or “Horse,” but you’re also free to write your name or any preferred text on the pieces.

▲ Bring home a fortune-bringing “Left Horse” — it might even earn back your travel expenses. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Notably, the “Horse” characters written here are oriented differently from the standard version, locally referred to as a “Left Horse.” Locals say the normal Horse looks like a person pulling the horse, while the reversed version appears as if the horse is pulling the person — symbolizing a steady stream of customers. Thus, the Left Horse is considered an auspicious charm for good fortune.

▲ A craftsman carves a premium set of shogi pieces priced at ¥86,000. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Aside from shogi, Tendō is also famous for its hot springs. The area is dotted with hot spring hotels, and the local Tendō Onsen is a sulfate spring rich in sodium and calcium, giving it virtually no pungent sulfur smell. It helps relieve muscle stiffness and soreness, improve circulation, ease cold symptoms, lift mood, and moisturize dry skin. For travelers who have been on their feet all day, a soak in the hot springs is the best way to unwind. Take, for example, Tendō’s “Taki-no-Yu Onsen Hotel,” where some rooms even come with a private “open-air bath” for an uninterrupted relaxation experience.

% Whether you prefer a personal soak or a lively communal bath, there's an option for every mood. (Photo / Reporter Lin Yanchen)

Eiguchō Official Website:http://eishundo.web.fc2.com/index.html

Taki-no-Yu Official Website:http://www.takinoyu.com/spa/