What makes Chihshang beautiful? It’s the unobstructed scenery that stretches as far as the eye can see and the roads without a single power pole.

Text and photos byKuei Hsiao-Sun

Have you ever had that feeling where the more you look forward to something, the harder it is to touch or describe it? There’s even a bit of self-doubt about whether you can capture that [emotion] accurately enough, so I kept putting off writing about [Brown Highway].

With this delay, I kept waiting for the right time, thinking the story would naturally fall into place. In the meantime, I used Google screenshots to mark each location on the hand-drawn map, because if you simply assume that arriving at Brown Highway means you’ll immediately see the [Jinchengwu Big Tree] or [Heavenly Road], you’re seriously underestimating how vast Brown Highway really is.

If you imagine it as a cross, the east is Brown Highway, the south is Heavenly Road, the west is the Jinchengwu Big Tree, and the north leads back to Provincial Highway 9. Even with this layout, you might still lose your way when you arrive, so don’t hesitate to bring this map along—Google will only take you to [Brown Highway], not any of the other landmarks.

Recommended direction: Because if you follow GPS navigation, it will take you to Brown Highway, and thenI sincerely recommend finding a place nearby to rent a bicycle. Yes, the bikes here are pretty old, so check their condition before setting off—but cycling in a place like this is absolutely better than driving.

The day I arrived in Chihshang was during the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. I had expected crowds, but as an office worker, I had to make the most of my precious vacation days. Traveling with the crowds wasn’t too bad, especially since the weather was nice. Over these four days, I actually got quite tanned in Chihshang (though I never wear sunscreen, lol). Now, with my slightly tanned face, I’m getting excited about my upcoming trip to Kenting.

According to the map, the closest place to rent a bicycle near Brown Highway is just a five-minute walk from the entrance. Most of the bikes seem to be donated, and all rides are a flat rate of NT$100 with no time limit—you don’t even need to leave ID. But do pick your bike carefully, and check the brakes and everything else before you set off. Due to the crowds, ride carefully.

Just across from there, you’ll see endless rice fields in Chihshang. The sunlight that day illuminated the lush green fields in a breathtaking way—it took your breath away. Gazing at them from a distance felt like stepping into a fairyland.

As we cycled, we arrived at Brown Highway and saw a crowd lining up to take photos with the [National Geographic Frame]. Then, a girl smiled at me. I was actually surprised to have captured that moment—I hadn’t planned to take a photo, but just happened to snap one that perfectly caught her smile. To this day, looking at the photo still warms my heart.

We didn’t end up taking a photo at the [National Geographic Frame] because, as we arrived by bike, we noticed dark clouds gathering on one side. We still hadn’t photographed the [Heavenly Road] (one of my favorite spots) or the [Jinchengwu Big Tree]. So we skipped it—after all, the line looked like it would take at least half an hour, and the crowd was oddly fixated, as if Chihshang only had these two spots: [Brown Highway] and [Jinchengwu Big Tree] XD. Honestly, it’s those who walk or cycle slowly who truly experience what Chihshang has to offer.

What makes Chihshang beautiful?! It’s the scenery—winding or straight—that goes on forever, and the roads without a single power pole. In summer, you’ll see lush rice paddies, and before harvest, golden fields stretch as far as you can see. In winter, you’ll witness landscapes mirrored on the horizon. Breathing in the scent of plants, pedaling slowly, and soaking in the endless views.

Everywhere, the rice fields stretch on, block after block, so vast you can’t see the edges. So expansive that even stretching out your arms can’t embrace it all. This is the most beautiful scenery in Chihshang—not just a few iconic spots. If you just drive through, how could you ever *really* understand it?!

Because you’re willing to walk slowly, to take your time, you’ll eventually leave the crowds behind and discover a Chihshang with very few people. From any distant vantage point, every angle becomes your own personal [Heavenly Road]. The open green fields on both sides, the overlapping clouds and mountain peaks in the distance—this is my favorite kind of weather. Even when the sun is blazing hot, it fills you with warmth and energy. From a distance, the cars you used to dislike seem smaller, and people look like tiny ants—just little dots. Nature wraps it all around you, and the true star is always the Earth. We’re just passing visitors in this moment.

All you see is endless green. A friend told me that even turning your head 360 degrees can’t capture the vastness of it all. Everyone is immersed in it, thinking they’re the happiest person there that day. But really, it’s this land that gives us this overwhelming sense of happiness.

So we continued cycling, heading toward the long-awaited [Heavenly Road], located near the [Wan’an Community]. So even if you don’t enter from the Brown Highway entrance, you can go directly to [Heavenly Road] from the [Wan’an Community] first.

When you reach [Heavenly Road], there’s a slight uphill climb. Once you reach the top and look back, you’ll see the stretch of [Heavenly Road] where Jincheng Wu rode his bike downhill. Ahead, in the distance, a chimney marks the direction toward “heaven” (a bit odd, XD). To the right is [Brown Highway], and to the left is [Jinchengwu Big Tree]. That should give you a general sense of the layout XD.

I really love the scenery here—the winding road and the wooden railings beside it. Weathered over time, they have a natural charm. Of course, it’d be even better if the concrete guardrails were also made of wood XD. From a distance, there’s also a slight curve in the middle, which reminds me that getting to heaven isn’t easy—just like chasing life’s dreams, you have to navigate through twists and turns.

[Heavenly Road] is definitely my top recommendation. You can’t miss it when you come here. When it’s crowded, you can jump around, take couple photos, or capture your own personal slice of heaven. On the way back, we went to find the legendary [Jinchengwu Big Tree]. Of course, it’s another crowded spot—but don’t worry about picking the wrong tree. The only worry is not having enough time to take a photo with it XD.

Near the [Jinchengwu Big Tree], you’ll start seeing big trees along the roadside. If you don’t mind the crowd, you can pick a tree that’s not swarmed with people and enjoy some shade and tea under it. Because in reality, the [Jinchengwu Big Tree] is touched up in ads to look extra lush XD. So if you don’t do your research, you might stand there thinking you’re at the wrong spot, only to realize there’s no “exact” version.

Along the way, there’s always a tree worth stopping under. You won’t miss it—you can choose one that’s yours and take a deep breath beneath it.

It’s the legendary [Jinchengwu Big Tree], surrounded by crowds. We stayed at a distance, enjoying our own tree instead—and the lively atmosphere under these other trees.

We came to Taitung, to Chihshang, to the legendary [Brown Highway], and met fellow travelers who love the journey. We loved the [Heavenly Road]—the kind you fall for at first sight and still adore upon arrival. So we have to share this with you: don’t miss that perfect angle. Walk slowly, take your time. If the weather’s nice, bring a towel and a water bottle, hop on a bike, and enjoy the scenery in the most natural way possible. That’s the only way you’ll truly *understand* the value of this land. To pursue and love the paradise you’re enchanted by, you have to love it the right way.

Article by: [Enjoying Life Without Boredom. Kuei Hsiao-Sun]